Dog Training Today with Will Bangura for Pet Parents, Kids & Family, Pets and Animals, and Dog Training Professionals. This is a Education & How To Dog Training Podcast.

#77 PET TALK TODAY Dog Training with Will Bangura. This Week we Answer Questions. How to help fearful dogs, leash reactivity, potty training, jumping, resource guarding, PICA, Fear of Car Rides, How to get a Dog To Come Every time. Counter Conditionin

October 08, 2022 PET TALK TODAY: Dog Training with Will Bangura, Dog Behaviorist, Dog Training, Cat Training, Pet Health, and Wellbeing with Will Bangura Season 3 Episode 77
Dog Training Today with Will Bangura for Pet Parents, Kids & Family, Pets and Animals, and Dog Training Professionals. This is a Education & How To Dog Training Podcast.
#77 PET TALK TODAY Dog Training with Will Bangura. This Week we Answer Questions. How to help fearful dogs, leash reactivity, potty training, jumping, resource guarding, PICA, Fear of Car Rides, How to get a Dog To Come Every time. Counter Conditionin
Show Notes Transcript
Speaker 1:

Raised by wolves with canine DNA in his blood. Having trained more than 24,000 vets helping you and your fur babies thrive. Live in studio. It's Pet Talk today with Will Bangoura answering your pet behavior and training questions. Ladies and gentlemen, please welcome your host and favorite pet behavior expert, Will Manura.

Speaker 2:

Good Saturday morning everyone. I'm Will Bangura. And

Speaker 3:

I'm Jordan Mar

Speaker 2:

Stellar and you're listening to Pet Talk today here on Facebook Live. We're here each and every Saturday morning from nine to 10:00 AM Pacific time. That's mountain time as well. Um, that would be 12 noon till 1:00 PM Eastern Time. That's right. And that would make 11 o'clock to 12 noon central time. We're so glad that you're here today. Do us a favor, hit that like button, Smash that like button. Show us some love. Uh, the more that you hit that like button, the more that this will get shared, the more that Facebook will present this on other people's Facebook page. You know, not everybody can afford private in-home training. This is a labor of love for us to be able to offer advice and help to you with your pets. Doesn't matter what kind of pet you have, doesn't matter what kind of problem you have. We're here to help you deal with all of your pet behavior and training issues. What we'd like you to do is if you've got a question, if you would like help with a particular training or behavior issue, type your question in the comments section. And please also let us know where you're watching from and what kind of pets that you have. Okay? Do that for us. We'll really appreciate that. And again, hit that light button. Uh oh. What is that little technical difficulty? Well, good morning, Mr. Martel. Or how are

Speaker 3:

Are you? Good morning. Good morning. I'm actually pretty good. You know, I feel really revamped this morning. I feel I woke up feeling really light and just great today. You know, however, later on in the show, we have a, we have a very interesting thing to talk about. So

Speaker 2:

We've got a story. We're gonna talk about that. Uh, so don't go anywhere. We've got a story later on in the show that we know you are going to be interested in. Did you walk your dog today?

Speaker 3:

Oh, actually, you know, I walked my dog today, yesterday, and the day

Speaker 2:

Before. Ah, did you know that? Uh, it is National Walk Your Dog Week.

Speaker 3:

Look at that. Hey, I'm on track.

Speaker 2:

Yeah. So everybody get your dogs out there. If, uh, you're struggling with your dog pulling on leash or a dog that's reactive, scroll down in the Facebook page and you'll see that. I don't know if it was, I think it was two weeks ago, Uhhuh, we did our show on loose leash walking and how to deal with leash reactivity.

Speaker 3:

Yeah, exactly. So nobody has any excuses to why they can't walk their dogs

Speaker 2:

This week. Yeah. Anybody got a pit? Anybody got a pit bull? Any pit bull lovers out there? Well, it's also National Pit Bull Awareness Month, National Pit Bull Awareness Month. And a lot of people don't know that. Um, there are about 30 breeds of dogs when we do temperament testing about 30 breeds of dogs that are more aggressive than the pit bull. You know, they always get a bad rap because they are powerful and they can be explosive. And when they do attack, uh, the damage is usually pretty significant. Yeah. They get a lot of publicity. Um, you know, you, the docent being the most aggressive dog

Speaker 3:

Say, the problem here is the dogs who are actually the most aggressive are these small little dogs that aren't doing as severe lethal or life term lifelong damage.

Speaker 2:

That's the number one, the docent most aggressive dog according to the, uh, American Temperament Society. Number two, the Chihuahua,

Speaker 3:

I would've guessed

Speaker 2:

That one. And number three, not far behind. Jack Russell Terrace. Look

Speaker 3:

At that. Yeah. The Jack Russell Terrace. Let me tell you, I had, I had a Jack Russell growing up. Her name was Layla. Sweetest dog ever, except for when she wasn't this dog. She ruled the roost with an iron paw. Let me tell

Speaker 2:

You, I had a Jack Russell, his name was little dude, l i l apostrophe. Dude, of course, you know, being a Jack Russell, he would do things that he shouldn't do. And then of course it was little

Speaker 3:

Yeah.<laugh>. That's right,

Speaker 2:

That's right. If you've got kids watching cover their ears.

Speaker 3:

Okay. That's

Speaker 2:

Right. That's right. Um, so anyway, like I said, we are here to help you deal with all of your pet training and behavior issues. If you've got a question about your pet training behavior issue, please type that in the comments section. Also, let us know where you're watching from and what kind of pets that you have. Um, hit that like button for us. Please share this to your Facebook. Paige, Jordan, do we have any questions currently in the queue? Absolutely. Well, let's get started. Let's start answering some questions.

Speaker 3:

We have plenty of questions. All right. So let's scroll up. I saw one right here. Ah, and this one is from Donna.

Speaker 2:

Donna.

Speaker 3:

Donna, or I apologize. I This is from Toya.

Speaker 2:

Toya, Yes. Sorry, Toya. Yes. Yes. All right. What does Toya have to say?

Speaker 3:

Says, And she's from New York City.

Speaker 2:

Ah, New York.

Speaker 3:

How do I stop my Yorkies from peeing in the house? Boys and girls?

Speaker 2:

Boys and girls? Well, I have to tell you, and, and I'm serious about this, um, in my 30 plus years of training dogs, I think the Yorky is the most difficult dog to potty train. And I don't say a lot about breed specific behaviors, It's just been my experience. They're very, very difficult to potty train. Um, the first thing I want to tell you is if you want very in depth information on how to potty train the most difficult, I mean the most difficult dogs you need to head on down to the Pet Talk Today podcast on the Pet Talk today podcast, season one, episode 16. We've got 45 minutes of in depth detailed information on how to potty train the most difficult, difficult of docs. If you follow the guidelines in the Pet Talk today podcast, season one, episode 16, on how to potty train a dog, I guarantee you you're gonna have success. Um, you can go to Google, um, you can do a search, Pet Talk today podcast. You can go to Apple Podcast, Google Podcast. You can go to Spotify, you can go to Audible, uh, any of the hosting platforms that, uh, host podcast, you'll find us. And again, go to season one, episode 16. The number one thing, I can't go into all the details, it's 45 minutes. But the number one thing everybody needs to do, if they've got a dog that's going to the bathroom in the house, you've gotta keep the dog in your eyesight at all times. And when you cannot have your dog in your eyesight, you need to create your dog. What we need to do is eliminate accidents that are not caught. It's not the end of the world. If your dogs have an accident, it's at the end of the world. If they have an accident and they don't realize, they don't understand, because you aren't there to teach them, that's not okay. Otherwise, um, dogs start thinking, going outside's optional. Going inside is optional because there's not that consistency. But, uh, the best thing I can do is point you in the direction of Pet Talk today, podcast season one, episode 16. I can't do you any justice here, uh, because there's 45 minutes of detail there. Try that out. Go there. I want you to work that program of potty training, and then I want you to come back in a couple weeks and I want you to report back and let us know how things are going. That's right. All right. Very good. Toya, hopefully that helps you. Um, love you guys in New York. Appreciate you watching.

Speaker 3:

Oh, right. So we have Donna now, now this time

Speaker 2:

It is, now it's a Donna. Yeah.

Speaker 3:

Donna wants to know how you stop a puppy from biting and jumping on small children. And if you don't mind, I'll take this one. Will,

Speaker 2:

Well before you do that. Yeah. Um, why anybody wants to have a small child is beyond you,<laugh>. Okay. I mean, their problematic, I don't know if you've seen'em, but they yelled, they scream, they do all

Speaker 3:

Kinds of things. Yeah. I think, I think they might even be a little bit more aggressive than the, uh, than the Dotson.

Speaker 2:

Yeah. Yeah. But anyway, let's answer and Donna's question regardless.

Speaker 3:

Now, here we go. So the first thing that you're going to do is you have to teach your dog an alternative behavior without any distractions present. So teach your dog how to sit or lay down or go to place one, or, well, any of the three will work, but you start teaching that when there is nothing going on around the house, then when the small children come into the room, come into the house, come into the door, wherever, coming to the backyard, you will then tell your dog to do that behavior that you have taught them. When they give you that behavior upon request, you will then reward your dog for doing it. Plain and simple. If your dog gets up, decides that they want to go try and jump, you will redirect, put them back into the position that they're supposed to be in and continue rewarding them for staying there. Okay? That is step one. You're just teaching differential reinforcement and alternative behavior. After you've done that. If that's not working, you've been rewarding and rewarding and rewarding this alternative behavior, the desired behavior through positive reinforcement. The next thing that you're going to do is you need to implement that. Whenever the dog tries to jump, you're going to cross your arms, give your back to the dog. Do not push the dog off. Do not try and, you know, yell at the dog. Nope, none of that. Just turn your back on him. Completely ignore the dog. And the dog's going to realize that they're not getting anything out of this jumping behavior, Okay? And you're gonna keep doing that. In addition to giving the dogs, uh, that command of sit or down or place, and rewarding that. Now you've been practicing this for like a week or two and it's still not working. Okay? If that's the case, now, you can start adding in things like maybe when the dog goes to jump, you walk through the dog, right? You know, I'm not telling you to kick your dog. I'm not telling you to harm your dog. I'm saying that if your dog keeps jumping, make it a little uncomfortable for them, Okay? Give them a reason to think, Oh, I don't enjoy every time that I jump. Uh, they literally just walk through me and then put'em in a timeout, two minute timeout in their kennel. If they're barking, whining and crying, don't let'em out. Once they get quiet, then you let'em out, and you're gonna see that your dog realizes, Man, I jump, I get put up, or I get walked through. I don't jump. I get lots of yummy stuff put in my mouth. And your dog very quickly is going to realize this is the desired behavior. I hope that that answers your question, Don, and I really hope that that helps. Anybody else that has a similar question. Um, let's see what else, what else, what else we have? Ooh, from Karen, Um, not certain where you're from, Karen, but she has a one year old Havanese male. He does not let anyone touch him except for her. Is there any way to fix this?

Speaker 2:

Well, let me take that one. Okay. Um, first and foremost, your dog doesn't want anyone else touching him. Yeah. So my question is this, how important is it for other people to touch your dog? That's a good question. How important is it? What's your lifestyle like? Okay. Are you grooming your own dog? Does your dog need to be groomed? Does your dog have a lot of health problems? Is it gonna be going to the veterinarian where it's gonna be handled a lot? Okay. Um, how far we wanna take this in terms of helping the dog, uh, be touched. Now, if this dog is scared of everything except for you, and if the dog is scared of a lot of things, not, maybe not everything, but a lot of things except for you. And if the dog that's afraid of all these things is making just very, very slow progress or no progress at all, there might be a contributing factor to this behavior problem that's medical. Um, so keep that in mind, folks, If, you know, most dogs can handle most things in life, and every dog can startle. Every dog can be afraid of things. You know, it was, uh, thundering and lightning, uh, rain showers last night, and, and my dogs jumped. Heck, I jumped when the, when the, uh, thunder cracked, But I recovered quickly. My dogs were back to normal within five seconds. If you've got a dog that experiences fears and they're widespread, there's lots of different things they're afraid of. And the things that they're afraid of, If there's no real threat, no real threat, but they're perceiving it as threatening. And when they're scared, they hold onto that for a very long time, even after the scary thing is gone, that's very severe. Now, I don't know if, if this is the case, Karen, with your dog, but if you, if any of you have a dog like that, you need to go to see the veterinarian because there's something else going on. Most likely neurochemical. I'm not a veterinarian, I can't give medical advice, but my experience in working with thousands and thousands of dogs that have the most, uh, severe fears, anxie, phobias, an aggression, is that typically when it's that bad, uh, part of the problem, not, not the whole problem, but part of the problem is there's a neurochemical imbalance and we need to have the right kind of medication. Um, if we don't, they're not gonna make much progress. Now, we've talked many times about the process of counter conditioning and desensitization almost every week. Almost every week, because you know, most people, they've got problems. Their pets are afraid or reactive, or they're anxious, or they have panic attacks, or they're aggressive. Um, and their emotional state, when they see that trigger, yeah, they're falling apart.

Speaker 3:

And, and if I may, will everybody in the comments, I'm seeing lots and lots of questions about a dog that has suddenly become aggressive towards strangers, aggressive towards other dog, aggressive towards children coming into the house, aggressive towards another dog in the home. This process that will, is about to explain, is going to be almost the exact same answer for your problems.

Speaker 2:

Yeah, I don't care what your dog's afraid of, if they have fears, I don't care what your dog is reactive to. I don't care what your dog is aggressive towards. Okay? Um, whether it be fear of a person, whether it be fear of a car ride, um, whether it be aggressive towards a person, aggressive towards another dog, um, those are triggers. The things that happen right before your dog's behavior are what we call antecedence or triggers in behavior and behavior analysis. We look at the A, the B, the c, A is your antecedent. What happens before the behavior? B is the behavior. And then C is the consequence. What happens right after the behavior? Um, we need to change the aedence. We need to change the consequences or what happens right after the behavior. And when we do that, we can change the behavior. Now, every dog has what I call a circumference of comfort. Whatever they're afraid of or whatever they're aggressive towards, if they're far enough away from it, they're okay. But you get to a certain distance. And every dog, it could be different. It could be 20 feet, could be 200 feet, could be a dog seeing a little spec down the road. Then again, it might be, Hey, they gotta be within an arms length before my dog has a problem. Every dog has what I call that circumference of comfort. We need to identify the triggers that our dogs have issues with. We need to then present those triggers. But at a distance that's far enough away from your dog, whether it be another dog or another person, they're far enough away where, hey, your dog knows that they're there, but does not have a care in the world. There is no stress whatsoever. Your dog's taking food from you will play with you if you want it to. Um, is not showing any stressed out body language doesn't have a care in the world. And what you're going to do when you're at that distance, that's where you start the work. The trigger gets presented. You need helpers. So you, hey, hey, whether it's a dog, whether it's a person, bring that person or dog interview of the dog you're working with. As soon as your dog sees that trigger, you're gonna have high value food rewards, like cooked chicken, cook, beef, cut up, little piece of hot dog. As soon as your dog sees the trigger, what it's afraid of, what it's aggressive towards, you're gonna feed, feed, feed, feed, feed, feed, feed, feed, feed, feed constantly and continuously. And

Speaker 3:

How long should they

Speaker 2:

Do that? They're gonna do that for about five seconds, 10 seconds maybe. Then we want that trigger to move out of sight of the dog. So your helper is gonna move the dog. Or if it's just a person, that's the trigger. They're gonna go out of the dog's sight. As soon as the dog's trigger is out of their sight, you need to stop feeding immediately. And then you're gonna repeat that over and over and over. What we're doing is we're taking the dog's emotional state, pairing it with the trigger, in this case, the emotional state. The dog doesn't have a care in the world, and we're positively reinforcing that emotional state with the trigger. And we wanna get to the point we're actually teaching a game. We wanna get to the point where when that trigger appears, your dog gets really excited because it knows yummy, yummy food is coming. And it looks to you for that food over time, very gradually, very systematically, very slowly, over weeks, if not months. We're gonna little by little get closer and closer and closer and closer. We can't get too greedy, cuz at any point we start moving closer and your dog has any concern or care. We've gone too far, too close, too soon. Now this is for visual triggers. If we've got auditory triggers, if we've got a dog that is afraid of thunderstorms, fireworks, things of that nature, we'll record them and we'll press play at a very low volume, a low volume that the dog doesn't have a care in the world. The dog's got a care, it's too loud. We find that volume where the dog doesn't have a care in the world. We press play and we feed, feed, feed, feed, feed constantly and continuously for five, 10, maybe 15 seconds, we press stop and immediately the feeding stops.

Speaker 3:

Absolutely. And how long is one of these sessions?

Speaker 2:

So a session, a training session for counter conditioning and desensitization is gonna be five minutes, 10 minutes, 15 minutes would be a long session

Speaker 3:

Long. Because here's the thing, even if you keep your session to five minutes, there we go. Five minutes, not 10, five minutes long, and your dog is over threshold for that entire five minutes. That is a very, very,

Speaker 2:

Those of you that have listened for a while that understand what threshold means, there might be some of you that don't know what over threshold means. Over threshold is a term that we use that identifies a dog that is experiencing some stress. Absolutely. Obviously, if the dog is explosive, Yeah, it's easy to tell that they're over threshold. However, in their canine body language, they could be lick lipping, tongue, tongue flicks. They could be doing things like turning their head away. Those are all stress signals. Those are some of many canine body language signals that let us know, Hey, the dog's not comfortable. Yeah, we're too close too soon. So we gotta know our canine Absolutely. Body language. Absolutely. Um, if you have a problem with a dog that needs some serious behavior modification, um, if it's aggression, if it's severe fear, we always recommend that you hire a professional. Absolutely.

Speaker 3:

Because here's the thing, it's dangerous

Speaker 2:

And it's difficult work.

Speaker 3:

It's, it is, it's it. Now, now here's the thing. It's, it's also very inconvenient, and you have to be prepared to commit time to this. That study said what?

Speaker 2:

72? Yeah. So let, let me just, we talked about it the last couple weeks, but I, um, read a study recently about shelter dogs that were aggressive, shelter dogs that had fears, anxieties, and phobias, and they were severe and they started doing counter conditioning and desensitization, the behavior modification to help these dogs. And basically what they found was that it took 72 counter conditioning and desensitization training sessions, and those were done over a period of 96

Speaker 3:

Days. So approximately three to five times per

Speaker 2:

Week. Yeah. And here's the thing, 86% of the dogs got better. Yeah.

Speaker 3:

So it works, which is so much higher than a lot of the best dog trainers in the country even report.

Speaker 2:

Exactly. That's a very high percentage. But yeah, there's a right way and a wrong way to do counter conditioning. And absolutely. It's not just about showing your dog the scary thing and shoving food in its mouth. It's,

Speaker 3:

You gotta make sure that you are developing you. The way that you gotta look at it is, what is the mindset of my dog that I want at the end result at all times? Keep your dog's mindset there. So if you want your dog to be calm, cool, and collected the whole time that you're training your dog can't be like over here. Like, Oh my gosh, do you see that? Do you see, do you, do you see that? Yeah, your dog may be taking the food, but like he is freaked out about whatever that trigger is. Okay? So just make sure that you pay attention to your dog's body language. Now,

Speaker 2:

Now one of, let me just say this. No. One of the things that prevents this work from really taking hold Yeah. Is if you've got a dog that has problems, fears, anxieties, phobias, aggression, and you let your dog continue to be exposed to those triggers, and your dog continues to rehearse those behaviors, rehearse the behavior of aggression, rehearse the behavior of fear, rehearse the behavior of anxiety, um, you're not gonna make much headway because you're fighting all these traumatic experiences. And trust me, those traumatic, scary experiences are gonna weigh much heavier That's right. Than the positive ones that we're making. And what you have to do while you're doing the work, the hard work of behavior modification through this counter conditioning and desensitization, you need to avoid all the triggers. Yeah. You need to avoid all the triggers. The only time that your dog should be in front of a trigger is when you're doing a training session. You're able to control it. You're able to make sure that things turn out right. All right.

Speaker 3:

Okay. Now, um, we have, uh, Marion, she is asking, she says, My dog likes to eat everything and won't give up whatever he puts in his mouth. How can we get this to stop? I love

Speaker 2:

This one. This one You wanna take it? Yeah. This one of my favorites. I might jump in in a little bit, but we'll let you start

Speaker 3:

Off with that. Okay. So Myn, here's the thing. The first thing that you're going to do is you have to create value behind the word drop it. Okay? And that is super extremely simple. Get yourself a little treat pouch, fill it up with some high value food, and then you're going to say, drop it. And you're just gonna take a handful, four or five pieces of food and drop it on the ground from a height. Okay? You want to drop it from a little high up. That way it spreads out on the floor. We're trying to build a scavenging behavior here. We want your dog to have to move around and sniff the ground and pick up all these pieces. As soon as your dog finishes the last piece that's on the ground, you're gonna say, drop it and drop more food on the ground. Four or five pieces. Let your dog scavenge around, sniffing around, getting those pieces. And then again, and again, and again and again. And what happens is your dog hears drop it and they stay right at the ground.

Speaker 2:

They become conditioned. Exactly. That. Hey, when I hear drop it, there's good stuff on ground. So if I got something in my mouth, I'm gonna let that go to pick up the

Speaker 3:

Food. Exactly. Now, a lot of people think, Okay, great. So now that my dog understands that it's going to spit something out, I'm done. No, you're not done yet. Because now you can. Now is the point where you can either a condition, a well trained, drop it or poison that cue for the rest of your dog's life. All right? And what I mean by that, by poison it, I mean, make it to where your dog hears that and goes, Uhuh, nope, I'm not doing that because bad things happen. So a lot of people think, Okay, cool. I say, Drop it, My dog spits the item out. I'm gonna take that item wrong. Instead, your dog has the item and I say, Drop it. They put it down, they pick up the food, and I let them take the item back. Now, obviously, we don't want to let the dog have certain items in their mouth, so you're not gonna do this like your dog comes running inside with a bird in its mouth. I'm not telling you to let them get the bird back. I'm telling you, you start out with a toy, you start out with a ball, you start out with a bone, something that your dog is allowed to have, and you say, drop it. Throw the food on the ground, They're gonna spit out that item. They're gonna scavenge around for their food, and then let them go back to the item

Speaker 2:

And, and start with items that are not that valuable to your, your dog. Right. Don't start with the most valuable thing that your dog is willing to fight to the death for. Exactly. Okay. Take something low value your dog really doesn't care. Little by little take things that have greater value.

Speaker 3:

I had a client just the other day. Yeah. They were like, they were like, Jordan, it's, it's, it's not working. The dog won't drop it. And I was was like, Well, what, what were you practicing with? And they were like, Oh, this, uh, this rope toy that they have. Right.<laugh>, Right. Seriously. Yeah. Piece of steak. And they're throwing down kibble for, for the, for the other food. And they're like, Oh yeah, his rope toy. And I was like, Well, is that like his favorite? And they're like, Oh yeah, that's his absolute favorite toy. And it's like, Well, that's why this is your dog's favorite piece.

Speaker 2:

Well, we gotta build up to that. Exactly. We gotta build up to that. Absolutely.

Speaker 3:

Exactly. All right, let's see. Ooh, here's one that I think

Speaker 2:

Would be, Oh, I wanna say one other thing too. Yeah. You know, dogs that are putting everything in their mouth, um, especially if it's inorganic things,

Speaker 3:

It's also important to look at if they're chewing it or eating it. Right. I know what you're getting at

Speaker 2:

Here. Yeah. Well, and I'm talking about pica. Yeah. And I'm talking about dogs that put things in their mouth and chew and swallow things that, um, are not really food. Yeah. Okay. Um, that's something you need to talk to your vet about as well. Absolutely. Um, we have found in the studies, in the research, in the literature, dogs like that as well as dogs that have resource guarding can sometimes benefit from taking a probiotic daily.

Speaker 3:

That's

Speaker 2:

Right. Interestingly enough, they can benefit from taking a probiotic daily. Um, and one of the things that we know is that as far as our nervous system, our brain chemicals, the things that allow us to be able to think and function and process, normally those neurotransmitters, 80% are created in our gut. In

Speaker 3:

The gut.

Speaker 2:

If you don't have good gut health, you're not gonna have good brain health.

Speaker 3:

Absolutely not. Okay. Absolutely

Speaker 2:

Not. So that was interesting about the probiotic. I wanted to throw that in.

Speaker 3:

Yeah. Now, here's one will mm-hmm.<affirmative>, Lisa, Lisa wants to know, will a puppy ever overcome car sickness? I have a four month old standard poodle who gets car sick. I even hold her water and food prior to traveling. What can I do? Mm-hmm.

Speaker 2:

<affirmative>. Well, the thing about being car sick. Okay. Um, most of the time it's such intense levels of fear and anxiety that cause, um, the stomach upset. And once we deal with the fear and the anxiety of cars, car rides, Yeah. Then typically the stomach upset, um, is going to be able to go away with. Now we had talked about counter conditioning and desensitization, and we talked about triggers. Well, cars, car rides, that can be a trigger for a lot of dogs to have extreme fear. Phobia's, anxiety. You know, some dogs, they absolutely, they just have a panic attack. They just start drooling profusely. And anytime you see your dog, unless there's food of day,

Speaker 3:

Right. Totally

Speaker 2:

Different. Okay. But anytime when there's not food and you see your dog just drooling profusely, most likely everything is context specific. But most likely the dog's having a severe panic attack. Now, when we go take our dogs for a car ride, there are many steps that we do before that. We put on our shoes, we get our keys, we get the harness or the collar, we get the leash put on the dog, we walk out. Maybe we go through the garage door rather than go out the front door. Absolutely. Maybe going out the garage door. The dog's like, Oh crap. The only time we go, the only time we go out this door is when they take me in the car. Exactly. And now all of a sudden, that fear, that anxiety really kicks in. Yeah. As you're walking out the garage door, it starts

Speaker 3:

There. And maybe ask yourself, Where do I take my dog? Every time that I get in the car?

Speaker 2:

Is it a nasty, bad scare, scary place like this?

Speaker 3:

Is it only the girl? Is that the only time that your dog ever gets in the car because you're going to the vet or the groomer? Mm-hmm.<affirmative>. How about once you've done the work, You start, you take your dog in the car, and you just do a quick lap around the block. Yeah. Not even do a quick 20 feet down the road. Come right back in one

Speaker 2:

Of the dog. First things you've gotta do is you've just got to, wherever your dog starts getting nervous, at whatever point, whether it's putting the leash on, touching the handle of the door of the car, wherever your dog starts showing concern, you only go up to just before the concern. You gotta see, where was my dog not concerned. Bring your dog to that point. Feed, feed, feed, feed, feed constantly and continuously for 5, 10, 15 seconds would be a long time. Turn the dog away. Bring the dog back to that position. Feed, feed, feed, feed, feed. Pairing. High value food rewards, making this positive. Stop feeding. Take the dog away. Now maybe that's 10 feet from the car and you've gotta do that for several weeks. And then maybe the next step is you can touch the, uh, door handle of the car and you gotta feed, feed, feed, feed, feed. Let it go. Stop feeding, touch the door handle, feed, feed, feed, feed, feed. Let the door handle. Go stop feeding. Then maybe the next step is you open the car door, an inch feed, feed, feed, feed, feed. Close the car door, open it at inch feed, feed, feed, feed. Close the car door, then maybe opening it up six inches and 12 inches. And then maybe having it open and bringing the dog one step towards it, and then two steps towards it. And then putting food on the seat. And the dog just sticks its head in there and takes the food off the seat. You've gotta take little baby steps, the whole process of getting your dog in that car. Break it down to little baby steps and take months to counter Condit and desensitize this. Once you get the dog comfortable in the car, the next step would be turn the car on, feed, feed, feed. Turn the car off, turn the car on feed, feed, feed. Turn the car off. Then it would be the next step. Might be putting it in reverse, going back five feet, putting it in park, going in reverse feed, feed, feed, feed, putting it in park, stop feeding, go in reverse feed, feed, feed, Put it in park, stop feeding. And we would start our movement and our distance in little sections or, or little spaces, you know? Absolutely. A block, two blocks a mile. Anytime your dog starts getting nervous and has a care, you've gone too far too soon. You need to slow down this process. Now I talked about dogs that are really severe. Yeah. If you've got a dog that's just shaken like crazy, drooling, like crazy, just absolutely freaking out, you're not gonna probably be able to do this work without some medication. Yeah. All right. Because every experience, no matter how you try to tone it down, is just trauma for the dog. Yeah. And if that's the case, you need both medication and behavior modification as you get through the behavior modification that me behavior modification, the medication can be weaned off. Absolutely.

Speaker 3:

Okay. Absolutely. Now we have a question from Claire. We actually have a lot of questions. We have a lot of viewers today. Yeah. Thank you all for watching, by the way. Hey

Speaker 2:

Everybody, do us a favor, Smash that like button smash the heart. Show us some love. The more that you hit that like button, the more that you hit the share button, the more that Facebook will share this with others and more people will get the benefit from. Absolutely. Let's go to our next

Speaker 3:

Question. Absolutely. So Claire has an 11 month old American bully.

Speaker 2:

Okay. How

Speaker 3:

Do I get him to come when I call his name? He'll come only if he's not busy doing what he wants to do. Well, Claire, you're just, I mean, you're just, outta luck

Speaker 2:

There. Can I take this one though? Absolutely. Can I take this one? Okay. And, and this is not just for a behavior of coming when called. There's a principle in training called capturing. Absolutely. Okay. Um, dogs present behaviors. They engage in behaviors all day long, whether we want them to or not. My dog sits, I don't know, a hundred times a day, lays down a hundred times a day, comes running up to me for a kiss or being petted or get a treat, you know, a hundred times a day. Yeah. Each one of those things, the dog's sitting on its own. That's

Speaker 3:

A lot of capturing.

Speaker 2:

That's an obedience command of sit each time my dog lays down on its own. That's an obedience command of down. Every time my dog comes running to me, that's an obedience command of come. Now they offer that freely without me asking for it, I'm gonna do a principle called capturing to start teaching my dog how to do those behaviors on command or queue when I want them to. So when your dog runs up to you on its own, I want you to start saying, Come label that behavior as it happens. Come. And then as your dog gets all the way to you, give it a high value food reward. Now you need to have a treat pouch with high value food rewards with you at all times. Okay? If you just put it on when you go to train, your dog's gonna listen when that treat pouch comes out, but then when it's off, they're not gonna listen. You gotta fool your dogs, folks with your equipment. Don't just bring out equipment when you train. Get them used to seeing it when you're not asking for something. That way down the road, you can wean off of treats and wean off of other equipment and get a dog to still do what it is that you know you want your dog to do. Well, why don't you jump in and do Yeah,

Speaker 3:

Absolutely. Absolutely. So now, now that you've, now that you've been capturing behaviors, this is what I want you to do. That's reactive training. I want you to start being proactive as well. What you're gonna do. Go out and get yourself a 15, 20 foot long leash, not a retractable. Okay. Just a regular flat 15 or 20 foot leash. Connect it to your dog and then you're gonna go out back, go out front, start in your living room if you have enough room, wherever it is that your dog is going to be as minimally distracted as possible, but have as much room as possible. Now you're just gonna walk around in circles, just start walking around. You know that song by post one and run and insert. Anyways, I can't sing. So<laugh> point here is you're just gonna walk in circles and once your dog gets distracted and starts walking, say that direction and is no longer following you, you are going to immediately start going the opposite direction from your dog

Speaker 2:

Running backwards.

Speaker 3:

Exactly. You're backpedaling. And simultaneously, I know I'm asking you to do a lot here simultaneously. You're going to give light tugs on the leash. Very, very light. And again, one more thing you're doing at the same time as you tug, you're gonna go, come, come,

Speaker 2:

Come. As you're walking backwards or running backwards. So there's a couple things happening at the same time. You got the leash in your hand. Yep. The dog. Imagine that the dog is a clock and the dog's head is the 12 o'clock position. Yeah. The dog's rear end is a six o'clock position. Let the dog get to the end of that long line. You get yourself to the back of the dog. So you're facing the dog's rear end the the six o'clock position. Exactly. You start running backwards as you're saying, Come, come, come giving some tugs on that line. Yeah. As soon as your dog starts moving towards you, no more tension on that line. Yeah.

Speaker 3:

And then you mark that behavior with whatever your desired, whatever you're built marker is. Come that point. If you don't know what a marker is, we talk about it a lot. I guarantee it. It's basically a way for you to say, Good job. It's a click, it's a yes. It's a good,

Speaker 2:

It's a great, it's something that has been conditioned. It's a, it's a signal, like a click or a yes that we've pre-conditioned to a click or a word. And food gets paired with the click. Exactly. Treat, click,

Speaker 3:

Treat, click, treat. And so now your dog is moving towards you. Mm-hmm. Right? And you've marked that good behavior. You're not exactly. Or

Speaker 2:

Click. The dog knows the treat's coming precisely because they're paired together. They know a treat's coming,

Speaker 3:

And now the dog is moving towards you, but you don't stop moving. You're gonna keep

Speaker 2:

Back running backwards

Speaker 3:

When the dog gets to you. Give them a treat. Yeah. And then do it again. And now your dog, they're gonna hear the word come and they're gonna go, Oh, I gotta get to mom, or I gotta get to dad. And then that's when you add in light distractions. Maybe have a child or your husband or your wife or your friend or your neighbor or another dog, something interacting with your dog. And then as soon as you say, Come, they stop interacting with your dog. And that's where you start. And then it turns into they're interacting with your dog and you say, Come, but they keep interacting with your dog. So now they have to leave the interaction and we're teaching them to leave the distraction. And then you add in toys, add in food when they're at their food bowl, maybe something that's a little bit less valuable for them because, you know, if I've, if I've got'em on a, a high value treat over its kibble, they're gonna pick that high value treat. So maybe they're eating their food and keep'em on that leash and you go, come, come. And you pull'em off of the, off of the food and you teach them to leave their food to

Speaker 2:

Come to you. Now I wanna mention something, because earlier you talked about poisoning cues. Yeah, absolutely. And if there's any command that gets poisoned, it's the come command. Absolutely. And we talked about it briefly, but I wanna just paint the picture for you. Again, Your dog gets something that you don't want it to have, and you're like, get over here. Come, come. The dog gets you and you take it away. And that's the dog's experience. Yeah. The dog learns that. Man, every time you call me, you take away something. I like, Why the hell should I come to you? That really sucks. Exactly. That's called poisoning the cue. Listen, anytime your dog comes to you on its own, anytime you call your dog to you, be happy, be excited. Praise them. Give them food no matter what.

Speaker 3:

You know how another big way that people poison that come command will. Yeah. It's when your dog runs out that front door or you

Speaker 2:

Oh, the leash. Oh yeah. That dog runs away. Yeah. Max get back, Max get back in.

Speaker 3:

And then finally Max comes back. And then what

Speaker 2:

Can you do, dog? Bad dog dog.

Speaker 3:

Bad

Speaker 2:

Dog.

Speaker 3:

Yep, exactly. The dog just goes, Oh my God, I came back to you and

Speaker 2:

You're beating me. Right. Exactly. What's

Speaker 3:

The dog's gonna be like? Uhuh, I'm not coming back to you. Not

Speaker 2:

Today. You know, my, I've got schnauzers, miniature schnauzers. Okay. Which are just bark barking things. Okay. They're just, they're just little things that bark. They just bark at everything. Okay. You know, they should have just called the breed bark. Okay.<laugh> and I got a doggie door. So they run out that doggie door and they're barking at whatever's going on in, in the backyard. They hear the neighbors dogs or something like that. And so it's okay for them to bark, but what's not okay is excessive barking. I mean, you know, I'm not gonna make my dogs mute. Okay. So what I've done is they run out that dog door, they start barking. I call my dogs to me, They come running to me. I give them all kinds of praise. They come in from outside. They're no longer barking. I'm loving on'em. Good dog. Good dog. Then they go back out, maybe a little while later, they start barking. As soon as they start barking, I call'em back to me. They come in, they're all excited. I'm excited. And I've done that for quite a while. Absolutely. You know what happens now what? My dogs are outside, they bark after a couple barks, they come running in to check me out to see if

Speaker 3:

You're gonna give'em

Speaker 2:

Love. Yeah. And guess what I give them love. Isn't that weird? So I did that over and over and over. Okay. Differential reinforcement folks teaching a behavior that's incompatible with continuing to bark. That behavior that was taught was to come when called when you're barking. Get lots of love now because I've done that over and over and over. It's conditioned. I don't have to ask for it. The dogs, when they start barking just a few times, they come running inside, Get love for me. It's wonderful. It's beautiful.

Speaker 3:

Absolutely. Absolutely. We have lots of people that have schnauzers in the comments, actually, I'm

Speaker 2:

Sorry. No, I, I love nutrition knowers and Yeah. And you know, my, my wife and my stepson are deathly allergic to animals and to dogs. And so I need a hypoallergenic

Speaker 3:

One. And you know, after meeting Boo, I, I've kind of fell in love with the breed. I, I would, I love to have a mini Schau zoo. Love.

Speaker 2:

Yeah. I love the Breed.

Speaker 3:

They're great. They really are great. But, you know, I honestly, I have a client, um, well actually now you have a client, um, that has Anato and Shepherds and that was a nice dog.

Speaker 2:

Yeah,

Speaker 3:

That dog. I, but it's a big boy. That was a big dog.

Speaker 2:

Well, you know, um, recently I've had to go back into the field. You know, I've been out of the field for a while just doing consults with people virtually

Speaker 3:

You realize that his elbows were kind of, you know, like rusting up a little

Speaker 2:

Bit. I had to be able use a leash again. Yeah. Yeah. So anyway, I'm back in the field and I'm taking over some clients that, uh, another trainer had, and I was in the process of contacting people saying, Hey, I'm Will Bangura from Phoenix Dog Training. I'm the owner. Yeah. I'm gonna go ahead and be your new trainer. Right. I wanna go ahead and, and get you scheduled. So I called this one lady, I'm not gonna say who she is, and she's like, Oh my God, I can't believe I'm talking to you. Yeah. And I'm like, Well, what do you mean? She goes, Oh, I listen to your show all the time, as far as I'm concerned, you're a God

Speaker 3:

<laugh>.

Speaker 2:

And, you know, it makes you feel good. But she says to me, I had to scrape up, I had to save up all this money so I could pay for the training. Yeah. And you know, it, it really humbles me, um, from the standpoint that so many people look to us Yeah, absolutely. Um, to help them with their pets that they family. Absolutely.

Speaker 3:

They

Speaker 2:

Love them maybe more than their human children. Yeah. And they've got a huge problem. Maybe it's aggression or fear and, and it's killing them. Yeah. And, and especially the people that are might be worried they have to get rid of their

Speaker 3:

Dog. Absolutely. And that's my last, that is, that is, that's why I love doing this so much, because when I meet a dog and I see this dog and I go, Wow, this dog Absolutely. In the wrong hands is being put down. Yeah. And then 6, 7, 8, 5, 4, however many months later when I graduate that client and they're saying, Thank you. Yeah. Thank you for the work that you did. Thank you for the hope I never expected my dog to get here.

Speaker 2:

Absolutely.

Speaker 3:

It's that right there. That's why I love doing this. I love saving these animals, which is actually related to the story that I cannot wait to share with you guys.

Speaker 2:

You know what I think what we might wanna do Yeah. Is bring something back to the show that we used to do. That, that sound, that music means it's time for pet talk news. We've got something in the news today. Jordan, what do we have today?

Speaker 3:

Well, Will, in a review of 75 studies published by me, Oz, or commonly known as Dr. Oz. Dr. Oz, That's right. It was found that over 300 dogs were killed. What? And Yep. And significant suffering was experienced by them and many other animals in their experiments, they conducted tests on more than 1027 live animals. And 34 of these experience resulted in the death of at least 329 dogs. In two other experiments, this resulted in the death of 31 pigs and 38 other experiments killed 661 rabbits and other rodents. In fact, in one case, a dog reportedly experienced lethargy, vomiting, paralysis, and kidney failure as a result of the experiments and was not even euthanized for two days.

Speaker 2:

Well, Dr. Oz, uh, you belong in the Hall of shame. Absolutely. And that's where we are putting you today.

Speaker 3:

Absolutely.

Speaker 2:

And that's pet talk news. Hey, let's get back to some questions.

Speaker 3:

Of course, of course. Let's see what we have here in our comments. Man, that's a lot

Speaker 2:

Of do us a favor, folks. Um, if you're just joining us, I'm Will Bandura. And

Speaker 3:

I'm Jordan Martella,

Speaker 2:

And you're watching Pet Talk today. We're here each and every Saturday morning helping you with your pet behavior and training issues. Hit that like button for us. Please share this to your Facebook page. Um, and we're gonna go ahead, if you've got a question Yeah. Type it in the comment section. Let us know where you're watching from, what kind of pets you have, and we'll help you with your questions. Jordan, let's go to the next question.

Speaker 3:

Absolutely. So Linda, Linda says, My two dogs have a chewing problem. They chewed my internet cable cord that was attached to the outside of my house at time. Ooh, that's dangerous. That could have resulted in some injury.

Speaker 2:

I don't notice. Coax have electricity.

Speaker 3:

Oh, absolutely. Coax runs electricity. Yep. They chewed my internet cable cord that was attached to the outside of my house. At times, they'll even chew on my wood fence. How can I stop that behavior? You know, that's a good question. So

Speaker 2:

Do they need their teeth?

Speaker 3:

Uh, you know, that's what I was thinking. I was thinking removal of teeth might be a good option

Speaker 2:

Here. Anyway, let's come up with a different

Speaker 3:

Answer. So Linda, basically the first things first, earlier we already kind of spoke about pica, right. Eating of nonfood items. So you gotta, you gotta look and realize, are your dogs just chewing it up or are they actually chewing and swallowing? Okay. Because if they're swallowing these non-food items, that might be something that you need to bring up with your veterinarian and figure out what's going on there. Get some labs done, maybe get your dog onto a daily multivitamin. Things like that. Excuse me. Now chewing up the fence. That's wood. That is, you know, it, it is organic in a way, but it's not food. Um, so you gotta then you gotta ask yourself, is it happening only when the dogs are outside? Is it happening only when they're alone? Is it happening all the time? Even if I'm in front of them.

Speaker 2:

Did she say how old the dog is?

Speaker 3:

Um, let's see. No, she did not let

Speaker 2:

Us know. If you, if you're listening, it's Linda, right? Yeah. Linda. Linda, if you're listening, I want you to, uh, let us know how old your dog is. Cuz here's the thing, folks, if you've got a dog that's seven months, eight months or younger, um, the dog's probably teething. And that's one reason why they're gonna chew. Jordan was talking about, um, whether a dog is chewing on organic items. You know, they may be lacking something in their diet if everything they're chewing on that they shouldn't is organic. Yeah. You know, Woods organic. Exactly. Um, the other thing, um, is going to be what is the quality of the dog food you're feeding? Exactly. How is your dog processing the food? Is your dog breaking down all the nutrients? Or is your dog maybe pooping some of that out and not getting everything that Exactly.

Speaker 3:

Are we seeing maybe some caria is the dog eating its own poop?

Speaker 2:

Exactly.

Speaker 3:

You know, these are all things that we have to ask. So Linda, answering that question is actually a little

Speaker 2:

Difficult for you. Yeah, I mean, there could be a lot of different factors, but let me break it down into the simplest thing. Okay. If you've got a dog that's being destructive, I don't care what the problem is, getting on the counter, grabbing things, chewing things that shouldn't go into the potty in the house. The number one rule said it earlier when we opened the show with the gal that had the dog with the potty training issue. Number one rule when you cannot watch your dog, when you do not have your dog in your eyesight, you must create your dog. It's not the end of the world if your dog does something wrong. It's the end of the world when your dog does something wrong and you're not there to teach, you're not there to instruct because you weren't watching. So the reason we use crates is to make sure that the, the dog doesn't get engaged in unwanted behaviors without there being a consequence. Because just engaging in those behaviors are self reinforcing. So that's the number one thing that you need to do. Also, giving your dog alternative items to chew and trying lots of different things. You know, find something that your dog really likes. You know, some people just give one item or two items are the same type of item. Different textures, different smells, different tastes. You wanna do that as well? Give that a shot.

Speaker 3:

Absolutely. Absolutely. Now, um, let's see, let's see, let's see, let's see. We have lots and lots of questions and I'm just trying to,

Speaker 2:

We appreciate all the questions. Yeah. We probably, obviously we're not gonna get to all of them. Yeah. Hopefully you guys are regulars. Hopefully you keep coming back. You're telling your friends every Saturday morning to come to the Pet Talk Today Facebook page for our Facebook Live. Um, if we don't get to your question today, um, come back, ask it again. You know, uh, and a lot of you folks are asking questions that are the same Yeah. Or similar. And we're able to kind of help you, uh, to understand what you need to do. Exactly. Now, if any of you need, because it's very severe, professional help, you can give us a call or you can go to our, our website, phoenix dog training.com. That's phoenix dog training.com. Or you can go to dog behaviorist.com. Yeah. Dog behaviorist.com. We do behavior consults throughout the world virtually. Um, and they're very successful. Uh, we found out that this can be extremely successful doing it virtually, uh, during Covid when we didn't have a choice. And yeah. Um, it was a huge revelation to, to a lot of us that wow, we can do just as much.

Speaker 3:

Yeah.

Speaker 2:

Not being hands on. It

Speaker 3:

Allows us to help so many more

Speaker 2:

People. Yeah. We get to help a lot more people that way as well. Let's go to another question.

Speaker 3:

Yeah. In fact, this is a question from Karen. Karen, if you're still listening, please tell us where you're asking this question from. Now. The reason I picked this one is so many people have actually asked a very similar question here today, and we have not touched on anything like this. Okay. My dog is almost five years old and has grown up since eight weeks old with my two cats of similar age. Mm-hmm.<affirmative> in the last year, she has started chasing and growling at them. Mm-hmm.<affirmative> when she reaches them. And any other time, she never ever hurts them. Mm-hmm.<affirmative>. But I am afraid that she eventually will, How can I stop this now? Will, this is a question that a lot of people have asked. They've asked, How can I help my dogs get along with cats? Mm-hmm.<affirmative>, my dog chases cats, my dog likes to go after cats through the windows. Mm-hmm.<affirmative>, things like that. So I think Sure. I think this is a great

Speaker 2:

Question. Sure. So dogs that like to chase after things have high prey drive and that's instinctual. Now some dogs have lower prey drive. They are not as quick to want to chase than there are some dogs that are just insane. Any slight little thing that moves there on it and they're just crazy about it. Okay. Um, so one of the things is your dog cannot be on a stay command and chase after a cat. At the same time. If your dog is committed to being in a down stay or going to its dog bed or caught, and we teach a place command and ask it to stay and it's committed to that, it cannot chase after the cat at the same time. So one of the first things we need to do without cats running around is we need to teach a very, very reliable stay command. I like using the elevated dog cots. They learn how to stay up. They're quicker, they're more reliable just because of the psychological cliff effect. It's a little bit up off the ground about two inches, and there's a clear physical boundary around that cot. They actually have to step off to get off it. So they're more apt to stay there. We begin to teach them to stay on there. We start giving distractions proactively baiting. If the dog takes the bait, we put'em back on command. We do not reward that. We bait them and coax them again, If they don't take the bait, we reward them. It's a little black and white game so they can learn how to stay, uh, very strongly with, uh, with a lot of permanence, a lot of reliability, with a lot of distractions. Um, then the next thing you wanna do is you wanna get, um, you can create this yourself. You can put a toy on a string, or you can do a, uh, uh, Amazon. Go to Amazon and put in dog flirt pole. Okay? Um, and basically it's a toy on a string, um, or a stick. And you're moving it around really fast and it's gonna get the dog all jacked up and your dog's gonna want to chase it. You're gonna use that as distraction. You're gonna start moving that around slowly to begin with, as your dog does not take the bait and stays you reward. If your dog takes the bait, you're gonna re command put the dog back on command, no reward. Little by little you're gonna get that flirt pole going like crazy, okay? And you're gonna just do the same thing. If the dog takes the bait, put the dog back on the cot. If the dog doesn't take the bait reward. Now, when it comes time for you now to bring that cat out Yeah. Put it on a harness and a leash.

Speaker 3:

Exactly. Now, why a lot of people ask me this question when we're doing cat

Speaker 2:

Training. Yeah.

Speaker 3:

Why don't we wanna put the cat into a cat carrier?

Speaker 2:

Well, we, we can, but it's not necessary. It's, it's an extra step that we really don't need to do. Yeah. Because eventually we'd have to go from that to the cat with a harness and a line on. Exactly. Um, so, you know, if we've got the dog successfully staying on place with distractions, we can get the cat out on a harness, on a leash, and the dog is staying on place, then what we wanna do is in intervals of about a minute or intervals of two minutes, we're gonna be rewarding the dog over and over and over. Little by little, as the dog gets desensitized to the cat being there and staying on this place, we're gonna get the cat moving around until we get to the point where we are getting that cat moving around really fast and the dog's staying on place and we are rewarding the dog for staying there. Now we're gonna also have the cat there and we're gonna take the dog off place. If the dog starts to wanna go towards the cat, we're gonna re command the dog to place. Yeah. Cause if the dog doesn't come off calm, cool, collected and wanting to just, you know, be neutral with the cat, the dog goes back on place. And that's how we're gonna teach the dog to be very calm. Now if the cat, or excuse me, if the dog, you know, like say three weeks later, all of a sudden things are going great. Dog wants to chase up the cat, interrupt that behavior, put the dog on place

Speaker 3:

Immediately.

Speaker 2:

Immediately.

Speaker 3:

It's so important. A lot of people are like, they think that, Oh, this proactive training is all that we need to do. No, if you only do proactive training, your dog's only gonna do it. When you are around, when you're setting up

Speaker 2:

Trainings and you've gotta be with your dogs, they're gonna make mistakes. You gotta be around there to help them deal with it. Exactly. And if you can't, they need to be created.

Speaker 3:

Exactly. You have to also be reactive. So when you notice that, Oh, I haven't, my dog is, my dog is the cat walks by the cat, the dog's just laying down and my cat walks by and the dog doesn't chase the cat. What should you do? You should capture that behavior. You need to immediately be like, Yes, click wow. Great.

Speaker 2:

Nice. If you don't do that, if you don't do this stuff, the dog may end up eating the cat. Exactly.

Speaker 3:

No,

Speaker 2:

Seriously, that's catastrophic.

Speaker 3:

<laugh>,

Speaker 2:

I'm Will Bangor,

Speaker 3:

I'm Jordan

Speaker 2:

Marc, and you've been watching Talk Today here on Facebook Live. We're here each and every Saturday morning from nine to 10:00 AM That's Mountain Time and Pacific Time. Uh, we are here from 1:00 PM to 12 noon Eastern time and 11 o'clock to 12 noon. Um, Mountain time. There we, That's the last one. No, I'm sorry, Central. I missed one. Central time. Yeah. There we go. Um, do us a favor. Hit that like button. Share this to your page. We are just about out of time folks. It's been a fantastic show. Appreciate all of the questions, all of the comments. Please tell your friends and family, um, about us. We wanna help them to have a great weekend. Remember, it's National Walk Your Dog Week. So get out there, walk your dogs. Have a good weekend, folks. We are,

Speaker 4:

That's

Speaker 2:

All folks outta here.