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If you need professional help please visit my Dog Behaviorist website.
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Raised by Wolf's with canine DNA in his blood, Having trained more than 24,000 pets helping you and your fur babies thrive. Live in studio. It's Pet Talk today with Will Bangura answering your pet behavior and training questions. Ladies and gentlemen, please welcome your host and favorite pet behavior expert, Will Manura.
Speaker 2:Good Saturday morning, pet lovers. I'm Will Bangura and you're listening to Pet Talk today here on Facebook Live. We're here each and every Saturday morning from nine to 10:00 AM That's Pacific time and also Mountain Time. That's 12:00 PM to 1:00 PM Eastern Time. We're so glad that you're here. Do us a favor, hit that light button, show us some love. Hit that heart button. Uh, the more that you hit that light button, the more that you hit the heart button, uh, the more people can benefit from what we have to offer. Uh, this is a labor of love for me. Um, I don't get paid to do this, but I'm here to help you deal with all of your dog and cat behavior problems. Maybe you've got a problem with your dog pulling on the leash. Maybe you've got a puppy that is having accidents in the house, or you know how puppies they like to bite, do that puppy mouthing type of thing. And maybe they're jumping, maybe they're barking, driving you crazy. Then again, maybe you've got a more serious problem. Maybe you've got a dog that has some serious separation anxiety. Maybe you've got a dog that has aggression, maybe fears, maybe phobias. Doesn't matter what kind of problem you have, that's what I'm here to do. I'm here to help you deal with all of your dog cats and other pet behavior issues. If you have a question, if you have a problem, if you would like me to help you with your training and behavior issues, do me a favor. Go ahead and post your questions in the comments section and also let us know where you're watching from and what kind of pets that you have. Well, you're probably, if you're a longtime watcher, if you're a regular viewer of Pet Talk today, you'll notice that Jordan's not here today. We've got a new face for Pet Talk today. It's taken about two and a half, almost three years, uh, to get, uh, my wife, the real boss. The real boss, the real boss, Hana Bangura on Hello Pet Talk today. And here you are. Thanks for having me. Well, thanks for being here and, and kind of pitching in that, uh, Jordan is out now. We didn't get a chance to really train you to kinda look through the comments and the questions and help me out. I don't know if you're actually seeing into that. Okay. So maybe you'll be able to help me. Yes. Um, now you're a, you're a relatively new pet parent.
Speaker 3:I am.
Speaker 2:I am. You gotta go to the microphone so we can hear you.
Speaker 3:Okay. I am, Yeah. Too
Speaker 2:New. Um, what I mean, you, you never liked dogs.
Speaker 3:Hated them.
Speaker 2:You hated them.<laugh>. Why? Why did you hate dogs? I
Speaker 3:Wouldn't say I hated them. I didn't think I liked dogs.
Speaker 2:No, no. And what's happened?
Speaker 3:I'm a mess.
Speaker 2:<laugh>, you're a mess.
Speaker 3:I love my Luke, my two little puppies.
Speaker 2:Aww. So you've been, you've been bitten by the dog. I've converted. You've been bitten by the dog bug. By the pet bug. You've been converted.
Speaker 3:I cannot believe I waited this long.
Speaker 2:Yeah. Okay. Well, cool. Um, one of the things that, um, I want to talk about a little bit today too is we've got trick or treat coming. We've got Halloween and a lot of people have problems with their pets, um, on Halloween, because the door's knocking, the bell is ringing, the dogs are going crazy. Maybe they've got a lot of anxiety. So, um, what I might do also is talk a little bit about how to desensitize your dogs to door knocking and the doorbells ringing. Um, and, and one of the ways you could do that is being very proactive. You can have a helper ring the doorbell or start knocking. And as they're doing that, you wanna have the highest value food reward you can for your dog. Maybe, you know, cook chicken, something yummy, uh, cooked filet men young. And when the knocking starts and have your helper knock really light, start feeding, feed, feed, feed, feed, feed constantly and continuously the whole time that the knocking is happening. And then when your helper stops knocking, stop feeding. And then repeat that. Do that for about five seconds. Knock, knock, knock, knock, knock, five seconds of feed, feed, feed, feed, feed, feed, feed. Stop knocking, stop feeding. Now you're gonna do that for about five minutes, maybe 10 minutes. That's a really long session. Five to 10 minutes of doing that back and forth, knocking, feeding at the same time the knocking happens, Knocking stops, feeding stops. Then you can do the same thing with the doorbell. Now, if you find when your helper is ringing the doorbell and you're feeding that your dog does not want to take the food, that your dog is gonna continue to bark, bark, bark. That means that your dog is over threshold, which means the sound of that bell is too loud. See, with the knocking, we can knock quiet and little by little we can increase the sound of the knocking with a doorbell, we can't. So you might have to get online, get to YouTube and get some recorded doorbell sounds and play that over some really good speakers or really good sound system. But you're gonna have to play it at the lowest volume. You press play as the sound of the doorbell happens. You feed, feed, feed, feed, feed, feed, feed. As soon as the sound of the doorbell stops, you stop feeding. It's the same thing as as the knocking. Again, very low volume. And you're gonna press the play of the doorbell. Ding dong, ding don ding dong. It's gonna go for about five seconds. And during the time that you hear that sound, you're gonna feed, feed, feed, feed, feed. Soon as it stops, soon as the sound stops, stop feeding, what we're doing is we're pairing something very positive with a sound. The knocking or the doorbell that might be causing a little bit of anxiety and turning that into something positive where your dog can begin to, uh, be excited about, um, the doorbell ringing. Be excited about door knocking. Um, there's other things that we can do too. Maybe you've got problems. When you open that door and new people come over and your dog's all excited and jumping on people, we can begin to use door knocking or the doorbell as the cue for your dog to go to its dog bed and lay down too. So there's a lot of things that we can begin to do. You can have a helper ring the doorbell, and you guide your dog to its dog bed. Ask it to lay down and reward your dog. And do that over and over and over and over. It's ding Don, go to your bed, Dog gets to its bed. You feed the dog. Now, if you do that over and over and you condition that over and over and over, eventually the command to go to the dog bed is just gonna be the doorbell ringing or knocking. So it just takes a lot of repetition. Um, have you been looking at our comments section? Do we have, uh, any questions that you've noticed? I
Speaker 3:Have not noticed one, unless I'm
Speaker 2:Not doing right. All right, Let me look and see what we've got going on here, Kimberly. Let's see. Kimberly's got a 10 year old small poodle see it. And it makes it hard for her to give Eardrops. Any suggestions? Okay, so a lot of people have these problems, you know, giving ear drops, cleaning the ears, uh, cleaning the eyes, doing things like that. Um, the first thing you have to do, again, you have to think about it. If what we're doing to our pet is uncomfortable, and if it's not paired with something pleasant or positive, of course they're gonna fight you on that, that, that just makes sense. We tend to wanna go in and dive completely into this when we need to be just creeping up to it and break that down into little baby steps. So the first thing you might have to do with those drops is just show the drops to your dog and give a high value food reward like a piece of chicken. Then get rid of those drops. Show the drops chicken, get rid of the drops, show the drops chicken. Get rid of the drops. Show the drops chicken. Get rid of. We wanna get to the point where your puppy is super excited to see that bottle of drops. All right? Because your dog knows, Hey, when I see those drops, incredible, yummy, high value food rewards coming come. And that's the only time I want you to use those high value food rewards is just for this problem. Don't use'em for other training right now. Now the next thing you're gonna do is you're gonna take those drops and you are gonna unscrew the cap and you're gonna bring it a little bit towards your dog. Now, if your dog, as you're moving the, the drops towards your dog, if your dog is showing signs of stress or wanting to back off, you have brought those drops too close to your dog too soon. You need to be able to bring it a little bit close to your dog, but your dog not have a care in the world. And so that might be just bringing it an inch towards your dog and giving a reward, pulling it away, bringing it an inch towards your dog, giving a reward, pulling it away, doing that over and over and over. So we can condition that. Hey, at say six inches from the dog's face, The drops can be near the dog's face and you can give a high value food reward and the dog's happy about that. And then little by little gradually, systematically, you'll be able to bring that bottle closer and closer and closer and closer to the eye. Now the other thing that you have to do, you have to think about it. How are you, Are you going ahead and kind of opening up the eye like that? Cuz you may have to touch the eye. Give a food reward, touch the eye, give a food reward, touch the eye, give a food rod, touch the eye. Open it a little. Give a food reward. I don't know how you're doing that. You know, holding the head back and giving a food reward, holding the dropper up above the eye with the head back and giving a food reward. You haven't even dropped a drop of this yet into the dog's eye. You see, these are all what we call success of approximations. So if you were to take a movie frame by frame, by frame, from the time you pick up those eye drops, come all the way over to your dog, get your dog's head the way it needs to be to put those drops in its eyes. You need to be desensitizing every frame, every step, little by little. This might take a few weeks to be able to get your dog comfortable with that, Okay? And you're gonna need to practice a bunch. So one of the things that I recommend that you do is that you get some saline, okay? Because you're gonna be doing a lot. We can't be putting medicated drops in your eyes all the time to get them used to it. But you can do that on a regular basis several times a day when you get to that point, when you have built up to that point. And, um, and your dog is ready to accept that. But you've gotta break this down into little bitty, bitty tiny baby steps. And when you do that, um, they'll get used to it. Anytime your dog says, Ah, I'm not liking this, You just went too far, too soon. You need to back up a little bit and pair that with food rewards. Make it non-threatening to the dog, um, and get the dog used to it little by little. It's kinda like dipping your toll in the pool and then putting your ankle in the pool and then your calf and then your knee and, and you know, little by little getting into the water. So that is, um, hopefully that helps you. I want you to go ahead, give that a try, see if, um, see if that helps you. And if it does, please contact, contact us. Let us know how that worked for you. Let's see. We've got, uh,
Speaker 3:Alyssa wanted to thank you. It looked like she tried one of your advice and it worked.
Speaker 2:What did Alyssa say?
Speaker 3:She said her puppy Jack has been so great with his reward. When he barks his predator warning the basics and the new command no bark, he immediately looks and will look back at the smell of a threat and comes right away knowing he's getting his treat. Thank
Speaker 2:You. Oh, that is awesome. Hey everybody, hit that like button for her and her dog. Give her some love, show her some love. Hit that heart button. Hit that like button. Um, we love to hear those stories. Um, and
Speaker 3:It looks like we back her would like to know how to stop a cane corso from jumping on us when we go outside.
Speaker 2:Okay, so I'm thinking you say when you go outside, so maybe this is, you're going outside the question I would have when you go outside, I'm assuming your dog is outside and then the dog jumps on you. Now, how long has your dog been out there? Has your dog been separated from you? Cuz they're very social for a long time and they're overly excited. Okay? Sometimes we have dogs that are crazy excitable in the house, and our solution to that problem is to put'em outside and then they're crazy outside. Now, I don't know if that's a situation, but there's a couple things you have to understand. Your dog loves to jump on you. It's being reinforced, okay? They want your attention. They want your attention. They want you to touch, they want to hear your voice. They want your attention. So when they're jumping, there's a couple things. One, we can use the principle of negative punishment. Negative punishment means taking away something the animal likes in order to change the behavior and being very consistent. What we can do when the dog jumps is we can turn around and walk away. We're ignoring the dog. Give the dog the cold shoulder. Don't give the dog any attention. Another type of negative punishment, the dog jumps. You can immediately put the dog in a kennel or a crate for two minutes. The dog loses its freedom. Every time it jumps, every time it jumps, the dog loses your attention. You walk away again, negative punishment. You're taking away something that the dog likes. The other thing that you wanna do, and you should do this first, and that is teach a alternative behavior that can be highly motivated because you've used high value food rewards. That would be an alternative behavior to jumping. Your dog cannot be sitting and be committed to sitting and be jumping at the same time. It would have to give up one behavior for the other. So you start working a lot of repetition of sit, command, sit. The dog's rear end hits the ground. You give a treat, sit the dog's rear end hits the ground. You give a treat. You do that over and over, then you need to have somebody start doing some distractions. Cuz think about it. You're excitable when you go outside or if people, if you've got a problem with strangers coming in and being jumped on. Cuz it's not just us that get jumped on, right? Friends, family, grandchildren, elderly parents. So we wanna be able to teach them that, hey, you don't get any attention until you sit jumping does not accomplish anything. We'll teach you how you can get attention. And when you sit, you get attention. When you jump, uh, we walk away, give you the cold shoulder. When you jump, we put you in your crate and kennel for a two minute time out using negative punishment. Um, so that's some of the things that, that you can begin to try with that. Okay? Give that a shot. See how that works. Kane Corso, big dog. We don't want them jumping on kids, that's for sure. Um, you may have to put a leash on your dog to help a little bit. Okay? If you got a leash on your dog and the dog comes up to you and you step on that leash, long as you step on it close to the dog, if they try to jump, it'll stop them. It's almost like a self-correction as well. Thanks for the question. Appreciate that.
Speaker 3:So there's a question about recall issues.
Speaker 2:Okay? What is our question? Who is it from?
Speaker 3:From Jar Brands.
Speaker 2:Okay.
Speaker 3:He will look at me and turn his head and lift his leg on whatever is close. I start to go out after him. And when he realizes there is no escape, he will come to me. I give him the hill command, and he does, after which I tell him inside, which he does, only because I come, I am close and he knows he better pay attention. Should I resort to a collar?
Speaker 2:Well, there's a couple things, okay? You have to be more interesting. You have to be more exciting. You have to be more motivating to your dog than the distractions that are in the real world. So a lot of people, they're like not wanting to use food or they're like, Well, I'm just gonna use my dog's kble or these, you know, cheap little dog treats. No, you need to cut up chicken. You need to have something that's absolutely amazing. Okay? And one of the things you can begin to do also is if your dog doesn't have a peanut butter allergy, get a ladle, smear a little bit of peanut butter in that ladle. Hold that ladle down next to you. Have that arm down and your dog's licking the peanut butter out of that label. And you're kind of luring and guiding the dog around in a good heel position next to you. And you, you, what you wanna do is be making a lot of turns. Guide the dog, make a turn. Let him take, take a lick, guide the dog with the ladle. Make a turn, Let'em take a lick. Guide the dog with the ladle. Make a turn. Let'em take a lick. Don't just walk, walk, walk, walk, walk. Don't let them lick, lick, lick, lick, lick. What you wanna do is teach your dog to follow you, to pay attention, to walk next to you at your pace. All right? The biggest thing you wanna teach with healing is the dog needs to filter out distractions and follow you. And the way that you're gonna teach them to pay attention and follow you is lots of turns. Because if you make a lot of turns, think about this. If you walk four steps, make a u-turn, walk four steps, make a u-turn, walk four steps, make a U-turn. How much time does your dog have to get distracted? You keep interrupting its focus, making a u-turn, which then turns the dog back into you. Hey, anytime your dog's get in front of you, make a U-turn, it puts the dog behind you. And then they're gonna wanna catch up, which you need to do is when your dog's eyes get to the middle of your leg, you make 180 degree u-turn away from your dog. You need about 15 feet of sidewalk to practice this. And several weeks, forget about going for a walk when your dog can heal with you for two steps, and then three steps, and four and five and six. That becomes a walk. That becomes a walk, Okay? Um, as far as lifting, lifting goes, you know, when I bring the dog out, I take'em to a potty place. Let them sniff, let them go ahead and attempt to empty their bladder. All right? Um, I'll let them lift and empty their bladder twice. What I don't let them do is mark, especially if it's on inorganic material. You know, I watch these people, they let their dogs walk by a car and the dog lifts its leg and pees on the person's wheel. Come on. That's their property. I wouldn't be happy. Okay? Peeing on the garbage cans as they walk by. You know, it's one thing, if it's a bush or it's a tree, something organic, I'm okay with that. But I'm going to interrupt a dog that is going to be marking all over the place. I'm just gonna keep'em moving. Keep'em walking. Listen, if my feet are moving, their feet are moving. And if their feet are moving, they can't be lifting it to go ahead and, um, mark. So keep your feet moving. Keep your feet moving. All right, what else? Do we have? Any other questions? Yes.
Speaker 3:Suzanne wants to know about grieving.
Speaker 2:Suzanne wants to know about grieving. What's going on?
Speaker 3:What do you think about dogs and grieving is adding back? I think in a mate's a good idea. I think that's
Speaker 2:What she's changed. Yeah. Adding a mate back into it. Um, well, you know, dogs, cats are pets. They're sentient beings and they can be depressed just like they can be happy and they're very social animals. And so they certainly can experience, um, depression when whether it be a human animal leaves the household for whatever reason, or a furry friend leaves the household, um, you know, typically in two to three months, they, they bounce back. But if you find that your dog is really struggling with this, alright? There's nothing wrong with either looking to some kind of a supplement to help your dog or to maybe make an appointment with your veterinarian and talk about some temporary medication. Now, I don't recommend anything that sedates your dog, right? And there's a lot of veterinarians. God love em. Um, they have good intentions. And on the surface it kind of makes sense, right? Your dog's anxious, your dog's nervous, your dog's depressed. Let's calm'em down by giving'em a sedative. The problem is this, they don't know you gave'em a sedative. They don't know what's supposed to happen. But what they do find out once you give it to'em is within 30 minutes, an hour, hour and a half, all of a sudden their reality starts to morph and change. They start feeling weird, goofy. It's like somebody slipped them several drinks, they start feeling a little drunk. They're nur. Most of the dogs that we give sedatives to, they start getting more anxious, more nervous, because they're losing control of their faculties. Many of those dogs, unless you completely knock them out, the sedative makes it worse. Now, that's not every dog that, that, you know, that's some. Now we've got other medications that we use that, um, don't sedate, right? If you look into the literature that's out there, and by the way, folks, I'm not a veterinarian. I'm not giving out medical advice. I'm sharing with you information that, that you can find out there on the internet as well. Um, Prozac is the drug of choice for fears, anxieties, phobias, aggression. Um, it's not something that real, it doesn't really sedate, Okay? When we're dealing with these kind of problems, we've typically got a neurochemical issue. Um, we've got low levels of serotonin. And so that giving them that type of medication can increase the serotonin and can help them. Now that medication doesn't immediately start to work. It can take four, six weeks before you start seeing any improvement from your dog. And not every dog, just like every person is gonna respond to every medication that's out there. Um, there are some also some natural supplements that you can give your dog out there, Sam, e s a m, those are all capitals. Capital S, capital A, capital M, small E, um, that boosts serotonin. Five htp, another supplement that boosts serotonin. L theanine boosts serotonin. So, you know, there are some things that, that you can do there as well. Um, but, um, I would, uh, try maybe a supplement and I would begin to, uh, watch and see whether or not you know, that's helping your dog. If not, then, then maybe you need to make an appointment with, uh, the veterinarian. And also if you're really struggling, get some professional help. I mean, some of these, um, some of these behavior problems are in depth and they might take 3, 4, 5, 6 months of really intense work to deal with. And unfortunately with, you know, pet talk today, we've got an hour and I'm trying to answer lots of questions. So there's only little bits and pieces that I can give you. There's a lot missing that you might need by hiring a professional. So if you do need some professional help, make sure that you do that. But thanks for that question.
Speaker 3:Lots of questions.
Speaker 2:All right, what else do we have? Huh? How
Speaker 3:Do I get my female bi shown four years old? Every time the door is open, she runs away. Okay, how can I stop her from running? That is a
Speaker 2:Excellent. Yeah, it is. It is. All right. So the first thing is we need to teach the dog to wait and not go through the door without permission. Now, what the mistake that a lot of people make, including a lot of trainers, is that they get the dog like within a few inches or right up at the door and ask them to wait. When I'm doing it, I'm asking the dog to wait three feet behind the door, okay? And as I'm walking to the door, when I get about, think about this, y'all know what a doorstop is, okay? So if the door opens, there's a doorstop. And imagine if there isn't a doors stop where the doorstop would be. Your dog needs to wait behind that imaginary line where the door stop would be. And any movement forward, you are going to be pushing the dog back and giving the dog a command of weight. So what am I doing? I'm walking towards the door, then I flip and face the dog and I'm backing up towards the door, Okay? When we get to the point where we're about three to four feet from the door where the door opening is the threshold, okay? And typically that's gonna be where a doorstop might be, okay? You are going to use your body, your spatial pressure, like a bulldozer. You're going to plow into the dog, move your body fast, Wait, wait, wait, wait. Just kind of charge into the dog. The dog's gonna back up because your body's charging into its personal space. Imagine if I started running up to you. Boom, boom, boom, got right in your face. You're gonna be like, Whoa, you're gonna back off. So is your dog. And you're gonna say, Wait as you run into the dog and push the dog back with your body posture, your spatial pressure, Okay? Then you're gonna start backing up towards the dog, always or so towards the door. Backing up towards the door, always looking at your dog. If your dog is not moving towards the door, reward the dog with a high value food reward. But get that food to it quickly because the dog's gonna try to come to the food, which means it'll come to the door. Okay? If the dog moves forward, you move into the dog and push it back. Say, wait, then you back up. The dog does not move forward. You reward. Okay? Now you wanna get to the point where you can wiggle the door handle and the dog's not moving and you reward the door a dog. Then you go back and maybe open that door an inch and reward the dog. Now again, at any point your dog's moving forward, what are you doing? You're plowing into the dog using spatial pressure, your bodied language to push the dog back. You're saying wait, when the dog doesn't move forward, you're rewarding. When the dog does, you're correcting by saying, wait, using spatial pressure, pushing the dog back. Little by little you'll open that door more and more and more and you'll have some distractions. You maybe wanna have some helpers outside the door cuz it's a whole lot different when there's somebody outside that door. Okay? And you wanna work on this over and over and over. The only way that your dog should be going through that front door is with permission. When you go to open that door, your dog should be three to four feet away from that door. For me, weight means don't move forward. It doesn't mean stay. I don't care if they run backwards, if they run sideways, if they go outside to the dog door, I don't care. Weight means don't move forward. And I teach the dog that, Hey, when I go to the door, you gotta be a certain feet, a few feet behind it, and I go through the door first and then I call you through the door. So that's one thing that you wanna do, um, to begin to teach those door manners. Okay? It's a very black and white game. The dog starts moving towards the door, you push the dog back, that's a little uncomfortable. You start moving towards the door, the dog stays where it's at, it's waiting. You reward the dog, very black and white rewards and consequences. Give that a shot and report back to us. You know, I know a lot of you have the same problem. And Halloween's coming up, Trick or treat better have some good door manners. Now's the time to be working on that big time, okay? Teaching your dog to go to a bed or a place when the doorbell rings or the door knocks, or you can ask for it so that you can open the door. Again, teaching an alternative incompatible behavior. Your dog can't be laying down on its dog bed and be committed to that and be running out the door, dashing out the door at the same time. You'd have to give up one for the other. So teaching and alternative behavior that has high value food rewards. What you want the dog to do has to be more motivating. You've gotta motivate the dog more than what we don't want the dog to do. And there's exciting stuff on the other side of that door. So you better be exciting and you better be rewarding your dog very, very well. Perfect. All right, I'm Will bag girl, and you are watching Pet Talk today here on Facebook Live. I'm here each and every Saturday morning from nine to 10:00 AM that Pacific time and mountain time, that's 12:00 PM 1:00 PM Eastern Time. Um, do me a favor, hit that like button and hit the share button so that more people can benefit from this training. Not everybody can afford private in-home training. So I'm here to help you deal with all of your dog, cat, pet behavior and training issues. Do me a favor. If you've got a question, if you would like some help with your dog or your cat or your pet's behavior and training, put the question in the comments section. Let us know where you're watching and what kind of pets you are. Hit that like button. We appreciate you. All right, let's go to another question. Okay?
Speaker 3:Julie wants to know how can I stop my very large energetic pity from mowing over my two elderly and ill
Speaker 2:Dogs? Okay, so the first thing is, initially you have no control over your dog, right? And you need to have leashes on your dog. Now did she say two? Two, okay. Um, you know, she has
Speaker 3:Two elderly ill
Speaker 2:Dogs and one pity that's mowing'em over. Okay? So the first thing you need to do, okay, is you need to start. Well, I would separate the dogs a little bit and if you have'em out, I would have the pity on leash until you've done the work and done the training to teach the pity to leave the other dogs alone. Okay? One of the things you can do, having that dog on leash, you can let your dog begin to go towards your older dogs. And before your dog gets all the way to them, maybe when they get about a foot away, call the dog to you. Run backwards as you call the dog, whatever your and maybe your dog's name is, bbo, bbo come, you start running backwards. Now, make sure you've got high value food rewards. And as you run backwards, keep running backwards until your dog gets right in front of you. Then reward the dog. Okay? Then walk towards the older dog. Now remember your pits on leash. You walk towards the older dog. When it gets to about a foot from that dog, you're gonna start running backwards. Dogs on leash, leashes in your hand. You're saying Come, come, come, come. Soon as your dog starts running towards you, you keep running backwards. Keep running backwards until the dog's in front of you and then you reward the dog. You're gonna do that over and over. Basically what you're teaching the dog is that when it gets real close to the other dog to come to you and that good things happen, all right? You want to be able to help your older dogs by being able to successfully call your pity away from them. Well, you're gonna have to practice that. And right now you don't have off-leash control. What happens if your dog says, Nah, screw you, I'm not coming. What are you gonna do? You lose. Always be in a position to win. When you give a cure or command, always make sure that you're in a position to make it happen. That's what the leash is for. It's to help you make it happen until you no longer have to give physical help. And that might be three months of doing recalls 10 times a day. I don't know, you can only work as fast as as your dog. Okay? The other thing I would work on is teaching your dog to go to a elevated dog cot. We call that place or a dog bed. Teach'em to go there, reward them. They start to come off, correct them, put'em back on again. You can use that spatial pressure that we did at the door for wait. We can use that leash to guide the dog back on the dog cot, the elevated dog, cotter dog bed. We call that place when they get there. We reward that over and over. We wanna do a little distraction training as the dog starts to creep off the bed or the place. Use that spatial pressure, say place or bed. Help the dog with the leash back on the bed if you do distraction and you should be, or your dog's never gonna stay. When you do distraction work and your dog takes the bait, put the dog back on command. Do not reward. Now give that distraction again. If your dog doesn't take the bait, reward the dog. We're teaching a very black and white game, okay? But the number one thing, you need to have a leash on that pity right now. Okay? And you need to advocate on behalf of your older dogs. Um, your pities probably got a lot of energy and just wants to play, play, play. And um, I don't want you to think that this is something that, um, is gonna happen without you putting in a lot of time. All right? Because your pity is probably pretty relentless wanting to play with them. So it's just gonna take some time. And if you find that, um, your pity just keeps wanting to go back and go back and harass the other dogs, it's okay for you to put the dog up in a crate for a while and give yourself a break because it's really difficult to have to, uh, deal with the dog 24 7 and always be on your toes. You need a break too. And I don't want you to feel bad about that because until you've got this trained in your dog, again, you've gotta do what you need to do to keep your other dogs happy and safe. So give that a shot. Okay? Excellent question. What else do we have, my dear?
Speaker 3:So Yvonne wants to know, how do I deal with two young goldens that get too excited when people come home or visit, including myself? They jump. Yeah, they jump and bite.
Speaker 2:Okay, I'm guessing the biting is play biting, okay? Um, that's typically what it is. I call that mouthing instead of biting, I reserve the word biting for an aggressive act. And, um, mouthing or puppy biting, I call that mouthing. Um, well, here's the thing. When you walk in the door, cuz your dog probably jumps on you, all right? You need to be turning around and walking away from the dog. I talked about that earlier, okay? You cannot engage with the dog. And when you walk in the door, you need to be quiet. Don't say a thing. Don't look at the dog, don't touch the dog. Don't go, Oh, what a good dog. Cuz you get all excited, right? We've missed our puppies. We get home. Oh, what a good dog. Oh, and they start jumping, right? We get'em jacked up. So the first thing we need to do if we have a dog like that, is we need to make sure that when we come home, it is super calm, super quiet. You freeze like a tree. If your dog jumps, turn around, walk away slowly if your dog continues to do that. I talked about using the crate for a timeout. Two minutes, Okay? And then I also talked about earlier, we've talked about this, teaching the dog in alternative behavior. Like sit so that when you walk in, you can say sit and the dog's sitting politely and you can greet the dog. Never give your dog's attention at all. If they're jumping up, turn around, walk away. Okay? Give your dog's attention when they're calm, when they're sitting, when they're relaxed. And by attention, you should have a treat pouch and you should have high value food rewards on you at all time until your dogs are trained. You know, that's part of your uniform. When you wake up and get up in the morning and you show up for work at home with your dog, you wear your uniform. That's your treat pouch. But those are the things that you need to do. Um, teach alternative behaviors. Make sure that you stop the reinforcement. Make sure you take away something that the dog likes if it continues that behavior. And you have to be consistent. Now, when strangers come over, have the leash on the dog so that you can manage and control the dog. Step on that leash so the dog can't connect, Okay? Have the dog on leash and give sit commands when people come over. Now, you may have to begin this process, You may have to begin that process at a distance. You know, if somebody, if, if if a person, a stranger's, right up on your dog and you ask'em to sit, it might be too much. You may have to have your dog, um, all the way on the other side of the room from the front door and maybe, um, a family member, a friend opens that front door, the stranger comes in, you've got your dog on leash, on the other side of the room, the dog sees the person at the door. But it's not as exciting because there's some distance, all right? And you're working the dog on obedience. You're keeping the dog focused. You have to be more interesting than your guests and tell your guests to be boring. Tell them to stop getting your dog in trouble. That when they get excited, you've gotta correct the dog. They don't wanna get your dog in trouble. So you need to educate the, uh, guests too as far as what you want them to do. Another great question, but we've had one similar to that. Um, what else do we have?
Speaker 3:Um, Barbara.
Speaker 2:Barbara, okay.
Speaker 3:Winston is one and a half years old. Barbara noodle doodle. He can't go back to the groomer without being sedated. He is so strong, they can't get him anything. They can't get anything done. Mm-hmm.<affirmative>, they say he isn't mean or aggressive, just will not cooperate.
Speaker 2:Okay? Um, this
Speaker 3:Is new behavior.
Speaker 2:All right? So you got a year and a half, I'm looking at it. Bernadoodle can't go back to the groomer event without being sedated. He's so strong they can't get anything done. They say he isn't mean or aggressive, just will not cooperate. This is new behavior. Well, I want you to think about it. Um, going to the vet usually is more scary than it is pleasant. Going to the groomer is usually more scary than it is pleasant. Your dog does not like it. Now, one of the things that you have to do, you know, if, if your dog listen, if the only experience your dog has at their groomer is the grooming, your dog's never gonna, probably like going to the groomer. If the only experience your dog has going to the vet is getting veterinary care, your dog's probably never gonna like going to the vet. And your dog's gonna always have to be sedated. You're gonna have to start making trips to the groomer. You're gonna have to start making trips to the vet where you walk in and you give food rewards and you walk out. You walk in, give food rewards, walk out, walk in, give food rewards, walk out, walk in, give food rewards, walk out, walk in, have vet staff, give food rewards. Walk out, walk in, have vet staff, give food rewards. Walk out, walk in, go into an exam room and give food rewards. Walk out, walk into an exam room. Give food rewards. Walkout. Same thing with the groomer, okay? All of the equipment. Bring the brush towards the dog. Feed, feed, feed, feed, feed. As a dog sees the brush. And as you lightly touch the dog with the brush, we might be using a comb, same thing. It might be water. We've gotta use gradual and systematic desensitization and get your dog used to all these things. Okay? Now, one of the things that you can do, there are what's called fear-free veterinary, uh, offices. And there are fear-free grooms. Now, I said, I know you said that. Hey, um, he's not afraid, right? Isn't that what you said? No,
Speaker 3:He's not. Um,
Speaker 2:Aggressive. Not aggressive. Yeah. Well, but he's probably afraid. All right? And with these fear-free veterinarians in the Fear-Free groomers, um, they take their time and they help to desensitize your dog to these problems. So if you're really struggling with this, get online, go to Google and find Fear-Free veterinarian near me. Fear-Free groomer near me. And that's for anybody. Write that down guys. If you're having problems at the groomer, big time. If you're having problems with the vet with your dog big time, hey, consider switching to a Fear-Free veterinarian or a fear-Free groomer. They specialize in dealing with dogs with fears to help them through the problem. A lot of people aren't aware of that, but you can, you can find those people and they help a lot. So do that. All right,
Speaker 3:So from Brenda, my daughter is 10 years old. Take his, um, I it text her Labradoodle seven month for walk, and the dog pool him runs. So she has to run. I'm not really understanding
Speaker 2:The question, right? This is from Brenda, right? Um, my daughter's 10 years old when she takes the dog for a walk, Labrador, seven months, the dog runs and she has to run, or the dog, uh, pulls her so she won't run. So it sounds like the dogs pulling on the leash hard and your daughter's having to run after her. Okay? Now, I don't think when you got a dog like that, that your 10 year old should be responsible for creating the right behavior. You as the adult need to be responsible for creating the right behavior. And then you teach your 10 year old and you have your 10 year old involved in that, okay? Um, most 10 year olds are not gonna know how to deal with that problem, okay? Um, I did a show here on the Facebook Live, I think maybe three, four weeks ago. If you'll scroll, scroll through this page. Um, after the show and you start looking at past shows, you're gonna see that one of the shows I did, and it's in the title, is How to Teach Your Dog Not To Pull on the Leash, How to Teach Your Dog to, um, Do Loose Leash walking. Also, how to teach your dog not to be reactive on Leash, Okay? Um, there's lots of steps involved in that, but it's gonna require actually teaching your dog how to walk on a leash, how to filter out distractions, how to pay attention, how to follow you, how to stay in position. So scroll down after the show. Eh, it's about maybe two, three. I don't, I don't think it's four weeks ago. So it's within the last few weeks. So if you look at the last few shows, you will find it. And anybody else that's having a problem with the dog pulling on the leash, A dog that's reactive on leash, look for the pet talk today. Show on loose leash walking and also, um, how to stop reactivity. Okay?
Speaker 3:So this is a good one. Okay? So real dog only eats table food. The previous owner said he ate both, but I bought over a hundred dollars worth of dog food and he will not eat it. And he will not eat for days.
Speaker 2:Yeah, Okay. Um, I've been doing this a very, very long time and I used to do board and training. I don't do it anymore. I think bored and train's a bad idea. I don't think you should send your dog away for training. You need the training more than your dog does, okay? And it's very stressful for your dogs. And usually when the dogs return home, they're good for two to three months if that. And then everything falls apart again. You've wasted your money. Private in-home training cannot, uh, there's no substitute for that. Um, now what was her question?
Speaker 3:The dog will only
Speaker 2:Eat Yeah, the eating. Okay. So I've had to take a lot of dogs into board and train and a lot of these people, um, free fed their dogs, you know, where they just let their dogs graze and they had to be on a really strict schedule when I was working with them. So they had about five minutes to eat in the morning, and they had about five minutes to eat in the evening. And I had dogs that you put the food down because they were used to grazing all day. They wouldn't eat it. And I'd have to pick the food up and I can't, I don't have time to wait. And then 12 hours later, I'd put the food down and because they were a grazer, they wouldn't eat the food and I'd pick the food back up. The worst dog that I ever dealt with in terms of fighting, it went five days without eating. Now, some of you're like, Oh my God, if you know anything about dogs in the wild, they might go an entire week without eating. Okay? When you start to try to make, when you, when you adapt this diet, every time your dog gets finicky, you give'em something different. You're encouraging your dog to be finicky because they will realize, Hey, if I turn my nose up at the food, um, I, they'll keep trying different things and I'll just wait for the stuff that I like this time. Okay? Listen, what you need to do is get a good high quality pet food, all right? Not cooked food from, I mean, if you're gonna cook the food for your dog, you need to know what you're doing. You need to know that this diet is completely balanced and that the dog's getting all of the new nutrition, you know, it's not as easy as just, you know, giving table food and thinking they're gonna be okay. It's got to be balanced. The nice thing about commercial pet foods is they're balanced. Now, I'm not saying there's anything wrong with home cooking food for your dogs or raw feeding, but they need to be balanced. But here's the deal. Whatever you feed your dog, whatever it is, you're gonna, and, and say, This is what I'm feeding it, and stick to it. Put it down for five minutes, pick it up for the next 12 hours and put it back down for another five minutes, then pick it up for 12 hours. And you keep doing that until your dog realizes that, Look, I either eat now or I don't eat. I've never seen a dog starve themselves to death. It won't happen. And I've never seen a dog go more than five days. Most dogs will go to if that, but if they take a little longer, don't worry. Make sure they got water, okay? If they lose 1% of their body weight, that's when you need to be concerned. But not until that, and you gotta be consistent and don't give in, don't give in. I guarantee it. It's an easy fix. You just gotta go through those few steps. So there you go. Try that.
Speaker 3:That's interesting one. Um, Dogo Aino, he doesn't like to look at me while walking. He walks with his head
Speaker 2:Down arms with his head down. Well, he's walking with his nose down because dogs brail the world with their nose. Um, and as far as looking at you, are you more interesting than all the smells that are out there? Okay. And there are tens of thousands of different smells for your dog. You go outside, you might smell three things. Your dog is smelling 50 things more than 50 things, and it's intense. Okay? Um, usually that breed is pretty toy driven. Um, I don't know if your dog likes to chase after a ball if you throw a ball, but if it does, you can use that ball on the walk to get your dog's attention, okay? And what I like to do is you can buy these balls on a string, okay? So you can kind of toss it to the dog and kind of pull a little bit and you can even pull their head up towards you, okay? See if you can get their attention with the toy. How about using a little bit of food, luring them up to your eyes with that food, Okay? When you're walking, make lots of turns as you keep turning your dogs and be like, Hey, where are we going? Hey, we're turning again. Where are we going? Oh, where are you going? Oh, where are you going? Keep making turns. Go five steps, take a u-turn, five steps, take a u-turn, five steps. Take a U-turn. I guarantee you if you do that at some point dogs gonna be like, Huh, look up at you. When that happens, reward the dog. High value food, rewards, chicken, steak, bacon, hot dog, something, something super valuable. Your dog's not gonna do what you want unless you motivate it. And food is usually that primary motivator, alright? And different foods are more motivating, okay? You give me bread and water versus filet and young, huh? It's different. Don't be cheap with your dogs. Give them the good stuff if you want to get through this. All right?
Speaker 3:Say Marjorie, have
Speaker 2:A question. Marjorie's got a question. All right.
Speaker 3:My friends rescue dog now almost two years old. Box continuously at other dogs. Why? Lunging? Hard unleash. Mm-hmm.<affirmative>, doesn't matter if these dogs are nearby or really far away. Yeah.
Speaker 2:Yeah. So who
Speaker 3:Not respond to any command?
Speaker 2:Yeah. Um, so this is a dog that's highly reactive, you're saying it doesn't matter how close or how far they are. Um, the dog is, you know, reacts no matter what. Um, the dog's way over threshold, okay? And if you cannot present these triggers to the dog at far enough of a distance where the dog knows that the trigger's there, but is calm and relaxed and doesn't have a care in the world, if that can't happen, if that can't happen, hear me again. If the trigger you're trying to get your dog used to, you cannot get it far enough away from the dog, for the dog not to be reactive, this is not gonna get better without using medication with behavior modification because it's too intense for your dog. We can't expose your dog to it at all. Cuz what you're telling me is even if that trigger is so far away, it's like a little spec. You know how when you're an airplane, you look down, everybody looks like a little ant. So if we're out there outside and that trigger for your dog is just this little tiny thing and we really can't get it far enough away, we can't work with that. We have to use medication to be able to take the edge off of that so that we can actually have a distance that the trigger can be from the dog, where the dog knows it's there, but it's calm, relax, and doesn't have a care in the world. And then we gotta go through counter conditioning and desensitization exercises, okay? And that's where you're going to pair something incredibly positive and make incredibly positive associations with the thing that your dog finds scary or the thing that your dog is reactive to. So for example, if your dog was cool, calm, and collected with another dog, 200 feet away, maybe, I don't know, 500 feet away, a thousand feet away, the way that the counter conditioning and desensitization would work is that strange dog would come into view of your dog. As soon as your dog sees it, you'd feed, feed, feed, feed, feed constantly and continuously for about three to five seconds. Then that strange dog or that trigger goes out of sight. As soon as it's outta sight, you stop feeding and then you repeat that trigger comes back into the dog site. As soon as the dog sees it, feed, feed, feed, feed, feed constantly and continuously super high value food rewards, then the trigger goes outta sight. You stop feeding. What we're doing is we're creating an association. And that association is the trigger brings about great things, great things, and we present that to the dog at a distance where the dog's emotional state is calm, relaxed, and they don't have a care in the world so that they can see the trigger, have a good emotional response. We're pairing something very positive with it after we've done that. And we need to do this three to five times a week. Counter conditioning and desensitization sessions run. 5, 10, 15 minutes is a long session. But we need to do this three to five times a week minimum if we're going to have success. And it can take up to three months of work to really make some progress. Because little by little by little, as your dog gets comfortable, that trigger gets closer and closer and closer. If at any point that trigger's getting closer and your dog starts getting nervous, starts having a care, a concern, you've gone too close too soon, you need to back off, rebuild the positive association at a distance that is, um, very relaxing for your dog. And little by little rebuild that up. Now, not every dog is gonna be able to be face to face with a trigger, whether it's a person they got issues with or whether it's a dog. Um, 20% of dogs are just completely not social. Not every do. I'm not a social butterfly. I'm very picky who I want to be around. And you are. I am. That's right. You're one of the people I wanna be around. So the real boss. Um, but you've got to, you've gotta do put in the work and you've gotta do the counter conditioning and desensitization. But let's say you're trying that and you're said, ah, I don't wanna do medication, which you shouldn't say that because rather than a last resort, in many cases it should be the first resort, okay? Um, because you may not get a dog better without it. And if you understand the science and the research behind it, um, there is some strong evidence why we need to be increasing serotonin with these dogs that are fearful, anxious, folic, aggressive, reactive. Okay? Um, but if you can't keep the dog below threshold, even at far, far distances, yeah, you're gonna have to get some medication. So you're gonna have to make an appointment with your veterinarian, make an appointment with a veterinary behaviorist, make sure that you're working with a really good skilled trainer or behavior consultant that can also help you through this process as well. Great. Great question. A lot of these are similar, but, um, that's okay because people tune in. They come in and out at different times. Um, thanks for being with us. I'm Will Bandura, you're watching Pet Talk today here on Facebook Live. Do me a favor, hit that like button, hit that share button so that more people can benefit from what we're presenting and that is solutions to these dog and puppy behavior and training issues. Um, okay, what, Let's get to some more questions. We've got about five minutes. Maybe we can fit in another question or two.
Speaker 3:So, Deanna wants to know, how do I get my Yorkie from eating up the Wewe pad?
Speaker 2:The Yorkie's eating the wee wee pad. Okay, Well, the first thing I wanna say to you is shame on you for using wee wee pads. Okay, I'm sorry. I don't like wee wee pads. I think they teach the dog that it's okay to go to the bathroom in the house. And obviously if your dog is chewing up the wee wee pad when it goes wee, we, it's not on the pad, it's on your floor or wherever that pad was. Okay. Um, one of the things that you need to ask yourself is, do you see the dog eating up the wee wee pad? Or is, is this happening when you're not there? Okay. Because if it's happening when you're not around, good luck trying to fix the problem until your dog decides, Hey, I don't wanna do this anymore. Because if there's not a consequence, when your dog's engaging in a behavior you don't want, that behavior is self rewarding to your dog. Your dog likes it, it's fun. Your dog's gonna continue to do the behavior. The number one rule when we have a dog that is engaging in unwanted behaviors, especially destructive behaviors, when we can't see the dog or the puppy and can't have that dog or puppy in our eyesight, we need to create or confine that dog or puppy where they can't be destructive, where they don't have things in the crate to rip up and chew up. And here's the bottom line. If you're gonna be doing crate training, then you might as well train the dog properly, potty training to go ahead and stop using the house as a toilet and start going outside. If you really want to potty train your dog. If you really wanna potty train your puppy, do a Google search for the Pet Talk Today podcast. Go to Google Podcast, go to Apple Podcast, go to Spotify, any of the hosting platforms for podcasts. Look up Pet talk today. Go to season one, episode 16, again, season one, episode 16, pet Talk. Today. That's 45 minutes of the most in depth detailed information on how to potty train the most difficult dog in the world. I guarantee if any of you have problems with marking potty training and you need to get that under control, if you'll go to the Pet Talk Today podcast, if you'll go to season one, if you go to episode 16, if you listen to those 45 minutes, if you follow those guidelines from A to Z, you can't help but have success. But it's gonna take some work. It's all spelled out for you. If you go ahead and you do it, you're gonna have success. I challenge all of you that have potty training issues to go to season one, episode 16, follow those guidelines, do that for 30 days, and then check back with us. Let us know how that worked. I guarantee if you're following the guidelines, your dog's potty trained. Absolutely. Well, we are just about out of time. Yes, we are. Thank you so much, my dear. The love of my life, Miss Hana Bangura, um, for being here and helping me, uh, to tell me what these questions are, and as a result to help all of you guys. Hey, we've had a wonderful show. I appreciate everybody that has submitted your questions. We're gonna be back here next Saturday, and that's gonna be from nine to 10:00 AM Pacific Time. That's also Mountain Time, 12:00 PM to 1:00 PM Eastern Time. Have a fantastic weekend. Work with your dogs, train your dogs, that's all. And be good to yourself. We're outta here.