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DOG TRAINING PODCAST; #123 Training Your Dog for Emergency Recall: A Lifesaving Skill, Pet Talk Today: Dog Training with Will Bangura MS, CDBC, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, FFCP

• Will Bangura, M.S., CDBC, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, FFCP is a World Renowned Dog Behaviorist, Certified Dog Behavior Consultant, Certified Professional Dog Trainer, and a Fear Free Certified Professional with over 36 years of experience with the most difficult of • Season 4 • Episode 123

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Join me, Will Bangura, your favorite pet behavior expert, as we embark on a mission to equip you with the life-saving knowledge of teaching your furry friend an emergency recall. In this action-packed episode, we'll share a heart-stopping story of two golden retrievers on the run, and how their pet guardian successfully used a special word to bring them back to safety. Discover the prerequisites for training an emergency recall, including creating a distraction-free environment and using high-value food rewards. Get ready to dive deep into the methods of teaching an effective emergency recall, with a focus on positive reinforcement and tailoring the training to your dog's preferences. Don't miss out on this episode that has the potential to save your dog's life!

In our first chapter, we reveal a captivating story of two adventurous golden retrievers who made a daring escape from their pet sitter. Tune in to hear how the pet guardian's quick thinking and successful use of an emergency recall saved the day. We'll then explore the prerequisites for teaching an emergency recall, emphasizing the importance of a distraction-free environment and enticing rewards. With these foundations in place, we'll guide you through the step-by-step process of training your dog to respond to the emergency recall cue word. Be prepared for consistency and repetition as we work together to make this life-saving command second nature for your furry friend.

Moving on to our next chapter, we'll take a deep dive into the realm of positive reinforcement in emergency recall training. Whether your dog is a foodie or a toy lover, we'll show you how to harness their preferences to reinforce the behavior effectively. From adding distance to introducing distractions, we'll provide the tools and techniques to set your dog up for success in any environment. Plus, we'll share tips on maintaining this crucial behavior and ensuring it translates to different situations. Don't miss out on this informative and action-packed episode that could one day save your dog's life. Remember to give us a five-star review and subscribe to help us reach and assist more pet owners in need.

DOG TRAINING PODCAST; #123 Training Your Dog for Emergency Recall: A Lifesaving Skill,  Pet Talk Today: Dog Training with Will Bangura MS, CDBC, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, FFCP

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Speaker 1:

Raised by wolves with canine DNA and his blood. Having trained more than 24,000 vets helping you and your fur babies thrive, live in studio. It's pet talk today, with Will Bangura answering your pet behavior and training questions. Ladies and gentlemen, please welcome your host and favorite pet behavior expert, will Bangura.

Speaker 2:

Good day pet lovers. Thanks for joining in. I'm Will Bangura. This is another episode of Pet Talk today, the dog training podcast that provides you with positive solutions to nagging problems, sometimes more than just nagging problems. We talk often about the more severe issues like aggression, fears, phobias, reactivity. Today we're gonna be talking all about the emergency recall. The other day we had a podcast and I wanted to cover the emergency recall but we didn't have time. We just spent the entire podcast basically talking about what canine socialization is and what canine socialization isn't.

Speaker 2:

So if you haven't tuned into that episode, go on to the pet talk today audio podcast and look for. I believe it's episode 122. I think we did on on canine socialization, but today I wanted to talk about the emergency recall. What that really comes down to is having a cue or command for your dog. That is a special cue or command that you rarely ever use. It gets your dog to come to you. You've got to train this in. It's about getting your dog to come to you, but it's a whole lot more than your regular cue or command of come. That cue or command of come is, I guarantee it, it's gonna be casual. Okay, you're never gonna be a hundred percent consistent with that recall word, the word come. We all do it. We're like, hey, get over here, come on, let's go, come, come on, come on, let's go. Hey, guys, come, come, let's go. All right, in the house, in the house, come on, come. Okay, we use that word come all the time and sometimes we really want the dog to come in and sometimes it's like, yeah, whatever, no, none of you do that, I'm the only one. Oh, my god, come on now. I know you guys do that from from time to time. So I want to make sure that you have a word, you have a cue, you have a command that is rock solid, going to get your dog running into you as fast as it can and be super reliable. Now why, why do you need, why do you want an emergency recall?

Speaker 2:

Let me tell you a story about a client that I had. This particular client had two golden retrievers and in addition to that, they went on vacation and there's a pet sitter watching the two golden retrievers. Now one day the pet sitter opens the door. She's staying at the house. She opens the front door, she's outside, she comes in the house and when she does that, she doesn't close the door. The dogs meet her at the door. She's petting the dogs and the next thing you know, both of them boom out the door. They go down the street. Those goldens go and she, the pet sitter. She's going hey, come, calling them by their name. Come on, come, get over here, come get a Max Lila, max Lila, calling the dogs names. Come, nothing's happening. She's frantic. The dogs are playing a game with her. She starts chasing after them. They think it's a game. They're running around and they're going further away. She is scared to death. There are cars coming down the road, who knows what they're gonna run into and the dogs won't come back to her. Can you imagine how she felt? She's the pet sitter for crying out loud. She's the one that was given the responsibility to make sure that the dogs were okay and she's lost the dogs. So, out of panic, she calls the pet guardian, she calls the owner and she's crying. She can barely breathe. She's sobbing on the phone as she's outside looking at the dogs they're quite a ways down and she's telling the owner I can't get them to come. I don't know what to do.

Speaker 2:

Well, this particular pet parent had worked really hard at developing an emergency recall, and when you do, when you train an emergency recall, you use a very, very special word, a very special cure command that typically is never or rarely gonna come up in in day-to-day speech. And in this case, the pet guardian used the word Poughkeepsie. I think Poughkeepsie is a city. And so the pet guardian says to the pet sitter listen, I want you to do this. I want you to look at them and with a firm, loud voice, but not screaming, I want you to say Poughkeepsie. Sure enough. She's looking at the dogs. They're quite a ways away and with her biggest voice she goes PAKIPSEE, the dogs turn around on a dime. They turn around on a dime and they just come running into her as fast as they possibly can. The pet guardian had told her when they come in if they come in, immediately grab them by the collar and then go ahead and bring them back into the house.

Speaker 2:

Now, the other thing the pet guardian said to the pet sitter once she got the dogs in the house and the dogs were safe and the pet sitter could calm down and she's no longer sobbing and crying. She's talking to the pet owner and they're saying, hey, don't use that word again. Even though it works great, that's only only for emergencies. Do not say that word again unless there's an emergency, like they run away again. So let's talk about I mean, this is, this can be the thing that saves your dog's life. This can be the thing that saves your dog's life. Everybody should be teaching an emergency recall.

Speaker 2:

All right, let's talk about what do you need. What do you need and how do you do this? Okay, so the prerequisites for teaching the emergency recall we need to start in a distraction-free indoor environment. So you want to start by doing this in the house. There shouldn't be any distractions. Now you're going to need to have a treat pouch and you need to have a bunch of high value food rewards Something that your dog absolutely loves and goes crazy for my dogs. They love chicken. So what I do is I boil some chicken breast. I cut them into little, bitty, tiny pieces about the size of a pea. That's as big as a food reward should be. Two of them should fit on the head of a nickel, for sure. All right, so I've got my location. I'm starting in a distraction-free indoor environment. I've got my treat pouch. I got my high value food rewards in that treat pouch.

Speaker 2:

What next? I need to get a six foot standard leash for the dog, at least in the initial phase of teaching this. Eventually you'll be graduating to a long line that's going to be about 20 or 30 feet long for your practice sessions when you start doing this at a distance. But right now, a six foot leash and you're not going to have the leash in your hand. If you need to use it to help guide the dog, then you'll pick up the leash, but we want the dog having the leash on. Now the dog's going to feel awkward having the leash on and you guys aren't, say, going for a walk somewhere. What you need to do ahead of time is get your dog used to just moving around the house dragging that leash. Do that for several days, then you can begin to start the emergency recall.

Speaker 2:

Otherwise, you know, I talked about doing this indoors and going to a place that's distraction free. Well, that leash being on the dog is a distraction, and as they're moving towards you or as they're just walking in general, they will from time to time step on the leash with one of their paws and then it pulls on the collar for a second and the dog thinks, oh, I can't go anywhere, I'm stuck, I got to stop. But they realize and they begin to learn hey, if I just keep my feet moving, I'll be okay. And that's why you want to have the dog wear that leash a few days, for a little while each day, before you actually go into this. All right, so we've got our safe location that's distraction free. We're doing this indoor. We've got our high value food rewards in our treat pouch. We've got our six foot leash.

Speaker 2:

Okay, the other thing that you need is a marker and I like using clickers. I also like using auditory markers. Now, if you don't know what a marker is, you'd need to look at the pet talk today podcast. The audio podcast, episode number 80 is all about marker training. It's critical. Your timing is so important and when you use markers and training, your timing can be perfect. Now I can't get into all the nuances of what a clicker or what a marker is, but it's something that gives a signal to the dog at the exact moment the dog is doing what we want, that it's going to get a high value food reward. You know your dog could be 500 feet away from you. You ask the dog to sit. Your dog sits. You cannot reinforce, you cannot reward that behavior in time because you'd have to go all the way over to your dog. But when you're using markers, when you've conditioned a clicker, that click means treat, or if you're using an auditory, a verbal marker like yes, and that's conditioned to food, now your timing is perfect. But check out episode 80 of the Pet Talk Today podcast. That's an hour long on marker training and using markers, using clickers in training, and it is critical, especially if you've got dogs with fears, phobias, reactivity, aggression. Yeah, you definitely need to be working with markers.

Speaker 2:

All right, now what's our next step? All right, we're now beginning the process. We've got everything that we need to do this. So phase one is introducing the emergency cue or the emergency recall. So step one we need to choose the cue word. What's gonna be that special word for our emergency recall? Now, this should be something that's rarely ever said. I like one syllable words, but you do what you wanna do. The shorter the better, but it's gotta be very, very unique. All right, so you've chosen your cue word.

Speaker 2:

Now the next step is we've gotta begin pairing the emergency recall cue word with high value food rewards. Okay, so this is how you're gonna do it. You are going to say the emergency recall cue word and then you're gonna immediately offer your dog a high value food reward. Okay, then what you're gonna do is you're gonna wait a few seconds and then you're gonna repeat that process. All right, you're gonna say the emergency recall cue word and then immediately offer a high value food reward to your dog. Now, wait a few seconds after the dog ate the high value food reward before you repeat this. Okay, now I want you to do this 10 times in a row. And I want you to do this a couple times a day, all right, two, three times a day, 10 times in a row. The goal of this is to make your dog associate the emergency cue word with something highly I mean highly rewarding. Okay, all right, we've got that and we're just gonna repeat that over and over and over.

Speaker 2:

Repetition on the emergency recall is critical. Using high value food rewards is absolutely critical. All right, phase two Now we're gonna begin to add some small distance. Okay, we're introducing distance to this. All right, with your dog on a six foot leash, I want you to move a small distance away, about no two or three feet. Okay, now you're gonna say the emergency recall cue word and as your dog comes towards you, I want you to reward your dog with a high value food reward. Now, the leash is there just as a safety net. Don't pull on the leash and don't pull the dog towards you. The goal is for the dog to make the choice to come to you If your dog's not coming to you at a short distance.

Speaker 2:

In phase two and in phase one, you are trying to pair the cue word of the emergency recall with high value food rewards. And now we're at two to three feet away. You use that emergency cue word and the dog doesn't come to you. What does that tell you? That tells you you've gotta go back. You've gotta go back to phase one. You've gotta spend more time pairing the emergency cue word with giving the dog a treat, a high value food reward, immediately.

Speaker 2:

Okay, now, I'm not saying anything about using a marker or a clicker. You need to be using a marker or a clicker. It's a given. It's a given. Those of you that listened to me and have listened long term, you know that it's a given. Episode 80, if you don't know what I'm talking about.

Speaker 2:

Okay, all right, now let's go back to the second step. That's where we're adding a small distance. All right, we're gonna assume that that is going well. All right, you're two to three feet away from your dog. You called the dog with the emergency recall word and the dog comes running to you and you give your dog the mark as soon as it starts moving towards. You mark that behavior with your verbal marker or your clicker and then, once the dog gets all the way to you, you're gonna give the dog the high value food reward.

Speaker 2:

Okay, now again, don't pull on the leash. Don't pull on the leash to get the dog to you. That leash is just a safety net and we want the dog used to having that on and pulling it. Okay, because we're gonna be doing it later in more distracting environments and we may need to grab that leash. We might need to help the dog. Okay, all right, so we're in phase two. We've added some distance Now for this two. I want you to do phase two 10 times in a row and I want you to do that a couple of times a day. If you don't do it 10 times in a row, if you don't do it a couple of times a day two, three times a day, you're not gonna get the conditioning that you need for this emergency recall to be effective. See, we need to practice this so much that it becomes muscle memory. Do you know what muscle memory is? Where you don't have to even think about doing something, that it's an automatic reflex.

Speaker 2:

I learned how to drive a stick shift, and if you learned how to drive a stick shift, maybe you were like me. It was brutal in the beginning. Oh my God, I'm grinding gears. I'm having a hard time. I popped the clutch and the car dies. Now I gotta start it again and there's so many things that I had to remember in the beginning all these little details, how much to put on the gas pedal, how much to put on the clutch, when to release it and at what speed. And then at what speeds do you shift into another gear. All of that seemed incredibly difficult in the beginning, and it was. It was brutal, if you watched me. Okay, it wasn't good, it wasn't good at all, but I kept practicing and practicing, and practicing and practicing and eventually I got much better and I was successfully driving a stick shift very smoothly, not grinding gears, not popping the clutch, not killing the engine. I got it. Now I nailed it. At this point I've got conditioning. I you know.

Speaker 2:

You get to that point where you used to have to think about all the little steps that you had to do, but then, when you've done it so many times, it becomes muscle memory, it just becomes automatic. You don't even have to think about it. It's an unconscious process. And you realize one day that you've been talking to somebody on the phone, the speaker phone, you've been taking a bite of a sandwich, you're drinking a soda, and the whole time you're driving and you didn't think once about shifting gears, but you've been doing it. Same thing happens if you learn to play an instrument and you get good at it. Right. In the beginning, you have to think about all the different placement of where your fingers need to be, depending upon what you're playing for, the notes, and it's difficult and you really got to use your brain to think about it and you make mistakes, right Just like the dog. You make mistakes in the beginning. It's awkward, it's not perfect, but if you learn to play an instrument and you got good at it, the practicing that you did again and again and again and again, became a conditioned response, a reflex. Now Now it's almost you don't even have to think about playing that instrument. It's just an unconscious process because you've done it so many times. It's muscle memory. You don't even have to think about it, just happens. That's what we need for your dog when it comes to teaching the emergency recall. It's got to be muscle memory. So again, 10 times in a row every day, twice a day, and you're gonna do this over and over and over.

Speaker 2:

All right, let's talk about phase three. In phase three, we're gonna be increasing distance and we're gonna add some distractions, okay. So step one of that is adding more distance. All right, gradually increase the distance from where you're calling the dog from and where you are, use a longer leash or a long line. When you're doing this, you can get 20 foot long line leashes. I'm not talking about a retractable. If you go on Amazon and you type in 20 foot cotton training lead, one of these long lines, these long leashes will pop up. You need one when you start adding distance. That's your safety net. Okay, in case the dog takes off. We don't want that, but we need the safety net. We're just now teaching Okay, so we've added more distance and we're gonna do that gradually. So what do I mean by that? So maybe I'm gonna add about three more feet. Maybe my dog's five feet away. Now, when I'm using the emergency recall cue word that's a very special word. I call it the dog starts running to me. As the dog begins to move towards me that's when I want to mark. When the dog gets all the way to me then I'm gonna reward the dog with the high value food reward.

Speaker 2:

Now, if you've got a dog that would rather have a toy and gets more excited about a toy than a piece of bacon. Okay, your dog is more interested in toys than food. Maybe that's the positive reinforcer that you're using. When the dog gets to you, boom, he gets the toy. You play for 30 seconds but then you get the toy back and you put the toy away, like in your back pocket. Okay, all right.

Speaker 2:

So, little by little, we're gonna add distance. We're gonna add five, roughly five feet at a time. Okay, now we're gonna start also introducing distractions. We're gonna add mild distractions, like that toy I was talking about bringing a toy in or having another person in the room clapping or talking or whistling. Okay, now you need to be able to win this 80% of the time. If your dog makes a few mistakes, well, that's normal. But we wanna set the dog up for success.

Speaker 2:

So make sure if you're doing some distractions and your dog is not coming into you, you've gone too far too soon. The distractions are too intense too soon. You need to dial it back and do more repetition. You've gotta get that muscle memory before you move on to the next. Sometimes, sometimes, all right. So you're gonna again keep adding distance. You're gonna call your dog with the emergency recall Q word as the dog moves towards you, you're gonna mark that with your clicker or your verbal marker. When the dog gets you, it's gonna get that high value food reward.

Speaker 2:

Okay, now, in phase three, we're gonna increase the distance more and we're gonna add more distractions. Okay. So, like I said before, gradually you're gonna increase the distance about five feet at a time. Okay, before you call the dog, you wanna make sure that you know where that long line is, because at this point we should be able to go in the backyard, maybe we can go in the front yard, maybe we can go on the sidewalk. Again, if your dog can't handle that well, you need to dial it back a little bit, but have that long line on as a safety net. So let's say we're 15 feet away, we've got a 20 foot long line and we've got five feet of that left. The dog is 15 feet away and now we call the dog to us. Now in the environment, there's more natural distractions.

Speaker 2:

Again, you're gonna practice this. Do it 10 times in a row, at least once, hopefully two or three times a day, and you're gonna do this over and over and over. Hey, the bad news, guys. I need you to do this for two months. Yeah, there's listen, anything that's good takes a lot of work. Takes a lot of work If you want this to work. When all hell's breaking loose, when there's insane distractions and the dogs get away, like in the example that I gave you with the golden retrievers who had the special recall word for the emergency recall Poughkeepsie, that dangerous situation that happened to the pet sitter.

Speaker 2:

If you don't do this kind of practice, this conditioning, it takes about two months of doing this to get to muscle memory where it becomes an automatic reflex and they don't even have to think about it. And gradually, systematically, a little bit at a time, over the next two months of you doing this, you're gonna be adding more distance gradually, you're gonna be adding more distractions gradually and you're gonna remember if your dog keeps failing, then I need you to dial back the distraction or dial back the distance and spend more time working there and then try to move forward. But little by little, we need to get into real world practice and we've gotta move into different environments that have more distractions and, like I said, it's practice, practice, practice. Now, after you've done this for about two months, you should have a super, super reliable emergency recall At that point. Now you're in what I call the maintenance and the generalization stage. At this point, your dog has it. If your dog doesn't, what are you gonna do? Practice some more, but hopefully your dog has this now and what you need to do to maintain that is periodically you've gotta practice the emergency recall and you've gotta do that in various different settings to ensure that it remains a strong behavior. You can't just train it and then stop using it. So, once or twice a month, do 10 times in a row the emergency recall, same way you were practicing it. Now, one of the things that we need to do like I said earlier, we've gotta go into different environments. We've gotta be able to proof this and you've gotta get to the point where your dog is reliable and this is conditioned in your dog. Like I said, when you're in distractions we're all hell's breaking loose, but your dog can do it.

Speaker 2:

And I know there's a bunch of you saying, hey, there's no way, with insane distractions, that I'm gonna get my dog to come to me just using positive reinforcement, because the balanced trainer's out there, the ones that use punishment, the ones that use aversives, fear pain, intimidation, the ones that think you've gotta correct the dog in order for them to be reliable, because you know what they'll say. They'll say listen, it's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when. When you're out and about with your dog, there's gonna be a distraction that has greater value to your dog than your high value food reward and your dog's not gonna come to you Guess what. They might be correct for them. They are not correct for trainers that are highly skilled, that have highly skilled and honed skills in positive reinforcement. Right.

Speaker 2:

When somebody says they've gotta use a correction, what they're telling me is that they have more to learn in the positive reinforcement realm in order to be successful, and so they need those tools the shock collar, the prong collar, the choke collar. We don't need those, and it's important that you never punish your dog. If your dog fails to come back, don't punish the dog. What would that association be for the dog with the emergency recall Punishment? Right, I come to dad and then, holy crap, I get punished. Well, what do you think's gonna happen there? The dog's gonna not come in at all. The other thing that you need to do that's really important is make sure, hey, you are consistent. Always use the same Q word and reward to make sure that your dog loves that food reward. Again, it's gotta be super special, your food reward, and you have to be more interesting and animated than anything in the environment and it's with that constant practice that your dog's gonna get conditioned. It's gonna be an automatic response.

Speaker 2:

See those trainers that say you've gotta use a correction, that there's gonna be a distraction, your dog's not coming in, they've not done enough repetition. It's not muscle memory, it's not an automatic reflex for the dog. And therefore, even with the correction, two things happen. Well, the dog starts viewing you negatively because they know it came from you, the pain came from you and you want them to come to you. I'm sorry, but if you're causing me pain I really do not wanna come to you. So with positive reinforcement you've got so much greater reliability. It's actually the opposite of what the balanced trainers who are using corrections prong collars, choke collars, electronic collars you don't need them, you just need to put in the work. And when you put in the work it's gonna pay off. But again, nothing good in life happens without a lot of work. All right, let's talk about one more thing and then we'll go ahead and we'll wrap it up.

Speaker 2:

I wanna talk about poisoning the cue and it's similar to when we're talking about punishing, but it's a little bit different. It's about making associations. If your dog, if you use that emergency recall and you're punishing the dog for whatever reason, or maybe your dog grabs something that it shouldn't have in its mouth and you end up using the emergency recall, I don't think it's appropriate. I don't think it's appropriate for that situation, unless the dog's going to choke on what it has in its mouth. Again, I'm going to save that emergency recall cue for true emergencies. But let's say you don't, you make the mistake and you say it and the dog comes running to you. It has something prized that it loves in its mouth it shouldn't have and you take it away from the dog. That association is that sucks. You took away the thing that I like. When I come to you, when you call me with that emergency recall word, if I've got something I really like, you're going to take it away. That's a sucky negative experience. Next time I'm not sure I want to come to you Now. Imagine if you did that over and over. You're going to poison the cue. The dog's not going to want to respond to that. All right, we're about done here Two more things.

Speaker 2:

When you are giving your high value food reward, I don't want you to just give one, all right. I want you to vary it between one reward, three rewards, three pieces of high value food reward two pieces. So maybe your dog comes to you on the second recall. You give your dog one, two, three high value foods. Then you call your dog Three more times. The dog just gets one high value food reward for each of those three recalls. Then you do another recall and your dog gets three. And you do another one and dog gets one reward. You do another one, the dog gets three rewards. You do another one. Dog gets two rewards. The next one two rewards, the next one two rewards, the next one three rewards. The next one one reward, the next one one reward, the next one three rewards. I need you to vary those rewards Because if you give your dog just one high value food reward when you do the emergency recall as soon as the dog gets the food, if that's the pattern you're creating just that one reward, your dog's gonna check out as soon as it gets a reward.

Speaker 2:

It's not gonna pay attention to you. There's distractions. Remember this was an emergency, you need focus and attention. And when you vary the rewards, when you're sometimes giving three, you're sometimes giving one, you're sometimes giving two, and you're all over the place varying that when you call the dog to you and you reward the dog, the dog's gonna be waiting there. Am I getting a second one? Am I getting a third one? Come on, come on, give me the jackpot, man.

Speaker 1:

I can't.

Speaker 2:

So vary the rewards, and if you do that, you're not gonna have a dog that as soon as you give it its food reward, the dog immediately checks out from you. Now, what are some other things that could happen? Well, the dog could come in on the emergency recall word and the dog could run past you. Yeah, the dog could run past you. So here's the thing I want you to do when you're practicing the emergency recall when the dog gets to you, ask for sit, Give the cue of sit. Your dog can't come in and sit and run past you at the same time. Practice that again over and over and over Muscle memory. Muscle memory where it's an automatic reflex. The dog comes in when it hears the emergency cue word and then, when it gets to you, it sits and it stays there because it's focused on you. Am I getting one reward? Am I getting three rewards? Am I getting two? So there you have it, folks. That's how you're gonna begin the process of teaching the emergency recall, Probably one of the most important exercises you could be doing with your dog.

Speaker 2:

Hey, do me a favor If you love what we do here at Pet Talk today, please give us a five-star review. I know you're busy. Just please take a minute, hit that pause button, give us a five-star review and also, if you're just listening to the podcast, you haven't subscribed to the podcast. Please subscribe when we get reviews, when we get people subscribing. That boosts the ranking of this podcast and that means more people get to benefit from the information. The reason I do this podcast is because not everybody can afford to hire a highly skilled behavior consultant or trainer. This is my labor of love. This is how I give back to the community. Do me a favor, give us a five-star review and please, please, subscribe. Okay, so, practice, practice, practice. Remember, I know two months it's not a long time. I know you think it is. You can do it, It'll pay off. I'm outta here й.

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Will Bangura M.S.,CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, FFCP

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